The Financial Angle: Buying, Leasing & Depreciation
How I Bought a $100,000 Porsche for $350 a Month (The Math They Don’t Show You)
I desperately wanted a Porsche 911, but the $1,800 monthly payment was impossible. A veteran salesman shared a creative leasing strategy. Instead of a minimal down payment, I put down a significant sum—around $35,000—which covered the car’s entire projected depreciation over three years. This left only the interest (money factor) and taxes to be paid monthly. My payment plummeted to just $350. It wasn’t about affording the car’s full price, but about pre-paying the depreciation. This single move proved that understanding the math behind a lease can make a seemingly unattainable car surprisingly affordable.
The “One-Pay Lease” Hack: Saving Thousands on a New Mercedes
My friend Maria was quoted $700 per month for 36 months on a new Mercedes GLE, totaling $25,200. She had the cash saved but didn’t want to buy outright. She asked the finance manager about a “one-pay lease.” By paying the entire lease amount upfront—a single payment of $22,500—the dealership dramatically lowered the interest rate (money factor). This simple question saved her $2,700 instantly and eliminated monthly payments. For drivers with cash on hand, it’s a powerful tool to capture the benefits of leasing while avoiding the high interest charges hidden in monthly payments.
Why I’ll Never Buy a Brand New Luxury Car Again (A $40,000 Mistake)
The smell of my brand-new Audi Q7 was intoxicating. I paid $95,000, feeling like I’d truly made it. The first year was bliss, but a job change forced me to sell it just 18 months later. The best offer I received was a shocking $55,000. In a year and a half, I had lost $40,000—more than the entire cost of a new Toyota Camry. That initial thrill cost me over $2,200 a month in lost value alone. Now, I let someone else absorb that initial catastrophic depreciation and buy my luxury cars at two or three years old.
The 3-Year-Old Sweet Spot: Buying a Depreciated Supercar for the Price of a Honda
James dreamed of an Aston Martin Vantage, but its $160,000 new price was laughable. He started tracking used car listings and noticed a cliff: right around the 3-year mark, as factory warranties and initial leases expired, prices plummeted. He found a pristine, three-year-old Vantage with 12,000 miles for $90,000. He sold his top-trim Honda Pilot for $45,000 and financed the rest. The monthly payment was comparable to buying a new, mid-range luxury SUV. He found the perfect intersection of massive depreciation and modern reliability, turning a poster car into his garage-parked reality.
Leasing a Luxury Car vs. Buying a Normal Car: A Full Cost Breakdown
Sarah could afford a $45,000 loan for a new Toyota Highlander, which came to about $750 per month for 60 months. For the same price, a dealer offered her a 36-month lease on a $65,000 BMW X5, also for $750 per month. While the BMW was tempting, after three years she would have nothing. With the Toyota, after three years she would have paid down $27,000 and owned a valuable asset. The lease offered more car for the money upfront, but the purchase built equity, making the “cheaper” car the smarter long-term financial decision.
The Single Biggest Lie Car Salesmen Tell About Luxury Car Financing
“We can get you to the monthly payment you want.” That was the line the salesman used on me. I said I could only afford $800 a month on a Lexus GX. He came back smiling with a contract at $795 per month. I almost signed it before I saw the fine print: he had extended the loan term to 84 months. While the payment was right, I would pay thousands more in interest and be “underwater” on my loan for years. The lie isn’t the payment; it’s what they sacrifice in term length and interest to get you there.
How I Used Turo to Make My BMW M5 Payments (And You Can Too)
My $1,400 monthly payment on my BMW M5 was steep. I loved the car but hated the financial strain. So, I listed it on the car-sharing app Turo. I specified it could only be rented for a minimum of three days by drivers over 30. I quickly found that renting it out for just two weekends a month brought in about $1,500. This covered my entire car payment, insurance, and even left a little extra. The car I drove for pleasure on weekdays became a self-funding asset on the weekends I wasn’t using it.
The 5 “Un-crashable” Luxury Cars: Models That Hold Their Value a Decade Later
David was a savvy investor and treated his car purchase the same way. Instead of a new sedan, he bought a 10-year-old Porsche 911 Turbo for $75,000. People thought he was crazy until they saw the numbers. Unlike a new Mercedes S-Class which loses 70% of its value in a decade, specific models like the 911, Land Rover Defender, and Lexus LX hold their value incredibly well due to brand loyalty, rarity, and reliability. David drove his dream car for five years and sold it for $72,000, making his cost of ownership almost nothing.
“Certified Pre-Owned” – Is It a Smart Buy or a Glorified Used Car?
Maria was torn between a used Audi A6 and a slightly more expensive “Certified Pre-Owned” (CPO) one from a dealer. The CPO car cost $4,000 more but included a rigorous 150-point inspection and a two-year factory-backed warranty. Two months after her purchase, the car’s complex transmission computer failed, a $5,000 repair. Because she chose the CPO option, the entire repair was covered by the warranty, costing her nothing. For her, CPO wasn’t a glorified used car; it was a fixed-price insurance policy against the unknown, and it paid off immediately.
The Depreciation Curve: When is the Exact Best Time to Buy a Used Range Rover?
I wanted a Range Rover but feared its notorious depreciation and repair costs. I analyzed hundreds of listings and found the sweet spot. New, they lose nearly 50% in the first three years. But from year four to year seven, the depreciation curve flattens out dramatically before repair costs start to climb. The best time to buy is at the four-year mark, right after the biggest drop, with a comprehensive extended warranty. You get the iconic style for half the price, drive it for three years, and sell it before major issues arise, minimizing your total cost.
I Negotiated $15,000 Off a New Audi. Here’s the Exact Script I Used.
I walked into the Audi dealership prepared. I had already secured my own financing from a credit union and researched the car’s true invoice price. When the salesman quoted me the sticker price, I calmly said, “I know your holdback is 3% and there’s a $2,000 manufacturer-to-dealer incentive right now. My offer is invoice price minus the incentive, plus a fair $500 profit for you.” He was stunned. By showing I knew his exact profit margin, I removed his negotiating power. After a brief talk with his manager, they agreed, saving me over $15,000.
The Hidden Costs of Importing Your Dream JDM Luxury Car (Like a Toyota Century)
Ben spent $25,000 to import his dream car, a 1990s Toyota Century, from Japan. He thought he got a deal. But then the hidden costs appeared. He paid $3,000 for shipping and port fees. Another $2,000 went to an import broker to handle the complex paperwork. Then came state compliance, requiring new headlights and emissions testing, which cost him $1,500. When a unique suspension part failed, it took three months and $2,000 to get a replacement from Japan. His “deal” car ended up costing nearly 40% more than he budgeted.
Financing Through the Dealer vs. a Credit Union: A $7,000 Difference
Tom went to a dealership to buy a $50,000 used BMW. The dealer’s finance office offered him a loan at 7.9% APR, which they called a “great rate.” Before he went, however, he was pre-approved by his local credit union for the same loan at 3.9% APR. Over a 60-month term, the dealer’s rate would have cost him over $7,000 more in interest than the credit union’s offer. He used his pre-approval as leverage, and the dealer magically found a bank to match the rate. Always secure your own financing first; it’s your strongest negotiating tool.
How To Calculate The “All-In” Monthly Cost of a Luxury Car Before You Buy
I fell in love with a used Maserati with a tempting $600 monthly payment. Before signing, I sat down and calculated the “all-in” cost. The insurance quote was $400 per month, double my current car. Premium fuel would add another $150. I budgeted $200 per month for maintenance, knowing an oil change alone was $400. Suddenly, the “all-in” cost wasn’t $600; it was $1,350 per month. That dose of reality stopped me from making a huge mistake. The payment is just the entry ticket; the real cost includes insurance, fuel, and maintenance.
The “Ghost” Car Market: Finding Off-Market Deals on High-End Cars
After months of searching for a specific Porsche GT3 with no luck, my friend connected me with a high-end car broker. This broker didn’t use public websites; he tapped into the “ghost market.” He called collectors, specialty mechanics, and other brokers. Within a week, he found my exact spec car, owned by a collector who hadn’t listed it for sale but was willing to part with it for the right price. These off-market deals avoid bidding wars and often uncover pristine, low-mileage examples that never see the open market.
Paying Cash for a Luxury Car is a Terrible Idea. Here’s Why.
My uncle proudly paid $80,000 in cash for his new Corvette, thinking he was smart to avoid interest. Around the same time, I financed a similar car at a low 2.9% APR. I invested the $80,000 I could have spent into a simple index fund that returned an average of 8% that year. After one year, my uncle had his car. I had my car and my investment had grown by $6,400, easily covering the $2,320 in interest I paid on the loan, leaving me over $4,000 ahead. When loan rates are low, your cash is often better off invested elsewhere.
I Tracked Every Penny: The True Cost of My First Year Owning a Lexus LC 500
I bought my dream car, a used Lexus LC 500, for $70,000. I decided to track every single expense for one year to see the true cost. My loan payments were $1,100 a month. Insurance added $220. Premium gas averaged $300 a month. I paid for one set of high-performance tires for $1,800 and two oil changes totaling $500. A rock chip repair was $75. At the end of the year, beyond the loan, I had spent an additional $7,575 just to keep it on the road. The true cost of ownership was far more than just the monthly payment.
The “Exotic Car” Tax Loophole You’ve Never Heard Of (Section 179)
My friend, a successful real estate agent, bought a new $110,000 Cadillac Escalade. I thought it was a splurge until her accountant explained the move. Because the vehicle’s Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) was over 6,000 pounds, it qualified for Section 179 of the IRS tax code. This allowed her, as a business owner using the car for work, to deduct 100% of the purchase price from her business income that year. This massive tax write-off effectively gave her a huge discount on her luxury SUV, courtesy of the tax code.
Can You “House Hack” a Car? Living With a $0 Car Payment
Inspired by real estate “house hacking,” where you live in one unit and rent out the others, I decided to apply the concept to my car. I bought a reliable, slightly boring $25,000 SUV. Then, I bought a fun, weekend-only $20,000 Mazda Miata. I listed the Miata on Turo and it consistently rented out for about $600 a month. My monthly payment for both cars combined was $550. The income from my “fun” car completely paid for both vehicles, effectively giving me a daily driver and a weekend toy for a $0 net car payment.
Why a High-Mileage Bentley Might Be the Smartest Buy You Can Make
Everyone runs from high-mileage exotic cars, but I saw an opportunity. I found a 12-year-old Bentley Continental GT with 90,000 miles for just $35,000—the price of a new Camry. The key was that the previous owner had meticulously kept all service records, including a recent, costly air suspension replacement. All the major, expensive failure points had already been addressed. I was essentially buying a car where someone else had paid for all the big-ticket depreciation and repairs, leaving me with pure, V12-powered luxury for a fraction of the cost.
Trading In Your Luxury Car: How the Dealership Really Calculates Your Value
I took my pristine Mercedes E-Class for a trade-in appraisal. The salesman offered me $32,000, calling it a strong offer. I knew from my research that the “auction value”—what they would pay for a similar car wholesale—was $35,000. They planned to list my car for $40,000. Their offer was designed to maximize their profit by starting $3,000 below its true wholesale value. They aren’t offering what it’s worth to you; they are offering the lowest price they think you will accept, which guarantees them a minimum of $8,000 profit.
The Insurance “Gotcha” That Could Cost You Your Luxury Car
After a minor accident, my friend’s two-year-old BMW was declared a total loss. He thought he was fine since he had full coverage. The insurance company paid out the car’s current market value: $48,000. The problem was, he still owed $55,000 on his loan. This $7,000 difference is called the “gap,” and his standard policy didn’t cover it. He had to pay that out of pocket to settle the loan on a car he no longer had. He learned the hard way that “gap insurance” isn’t an upsell; it’s essential protection on a rapidly depreciating luxury car.
I “Flipped” a Porsche Macan for a $5,000 Profit in 6 Months. Here’s How.
I noticed the demand for the Porsche Macan S was far exceeding supply, with wait times of over a year for a new one. I found a six-month-old, low-mileage CPO model at a dealership for $70,000. I knew people were paying over sticker for new ones. I bought the car, drove it sparingly for six months, and enjoyed it. Then I listed it privately for $78,000, highlighting its immediate availability. A buyer who was tired of waiting happily paid $75,000. I essentially got paid to drive a Porsche for half a year.
The Psychology of the Test Drive: How Dealers Use It Against You
I was only “browsing” for a Jaguar F-Type. The salesman insisted I take it for a spin. The moment I pressed the start button and the V8 roared to life, my practical budget felt distant. On the highway, the acceleration was intoxicating. He had me take a route with twists and turns, making me feel like a race car driver. By the time we got back to the dealership, I was emotionally hooked. The test drive isn’t for you to evaluate the car; it’s to get you to fall in love so your emotions override your financial logic.
What Happens When You Can’t Afford Your Luxury Car Payments?
My coworker, Mark, lost his high-paying job six months after buying a new Audi S5. He tried to sell it, but he was “underwater,” owing $8,000 more than it was worth. He couldn’t afford the payment or the negative equity. He missed one payment, then two. Soon, he woke up one morning and the car was gone—it had been repossessed. The repossession destroyed his credit score for seven years, and the lender still sued him for the remaining balance after they auctioned the car off for a low price. It was a devastating financial spiral.
The Best Credit Score to Get 0% APR on a Luxury Vehicle
My friend had a 740 credit score and thought she was a shoo-in for the 0% APR deal advertised on a new Lexus. The dealer ran her credit and came back with a 2.9% offer. “The 0% is for top-tier credit,” he explained. She was confused until she learned that for most luxury brands, “top-tier” or “Tier 1” credit doesn’t just mean “good”—it means a FICO score of 780 or higher. Below that, you are offered still-good, but not perfect, rates. That 40-point difference was the gatekeeper to the best financing deal.
Is an Extended Warranty on a BMW Ever Worth It? A Data-Driven Answer
I was buying a four-year-old BMW X5 and the dealer pushed a $4,500 extended warranty. It felt expensive. Before agreeing, I went on owner forums and looked at data for common repairs on that specific model between 50,000 and 100,000 miles. I saw dozens of posts about oil leaks, water pump failures, and electronic module issues, with average repair bills ranging from $1,500 to $4,000. Seeing the high probability of at least two of these issues occurring, the $4,500 warranty went from being an expense to being a predictable, cost-effective insurance policy. I bought it.
How I Found a $60,000 G-Wagen That Was Cheaper to Own Than My Old Jeep
I owned a Jeep Wrangler that, between its $500 monthly payment and frequent small repairs, cost me about $700 a month. I sold it and bought a 15-year-old Mercedes G-Wagen for $60,000. Because these older models are legendary for holding their value, it barely depreciated. I paid cash, so there was no payment. My average maintenance cost was about $200 a month. So while my Jeep was costing me
500 of which was a permanent loss), my G-Wagen cost me only $200 a month in real costs, proving initial price isn’t everything.
The “European Delivery” Program: A Free Vacation With Your New Porsche?
When I ordered my Porsche 911, I checked the box for “European Delivery.” Instead of picking it up at my local dealer, Porsche flew my wife and me to Germany. We toured the factory and saw my car being built. Then, they handed me the keys and we spent two weeks driving through the Alps on an unforgettable vacation. The program cost was about 7% less than the car’s US MSRP, which completely paid for our flights and hotels. We got the trip of a lifetime, and it was essentially free with the purchase of the car.
The Emotional Cost of “Car-Poor”: When Your Ride Owns You
In my late 20s, I stretched my budget to lease an Infiniti G37. The $550 monthly payment was manageable, but it left me with zero wiggle room. I started saying no to dinners with friends, skipped vacations, and felt a constant, low-level anxiety about money. Every new scratch in a parking lot felt like a personal attack. I was so worried about mileage overages that I’d avoid driving. I owned a fun, sporty car that I was too stressed to actually enjoy. The car didn’t represent freedom; it represented a financial cage I had built for myself.
What a $1 Million Car Collection Actually Costs to Maintain Annually
My mentor owns a stunning car collection worth over $1 million, featuring Ferraris, Porsches, and vintage Alfas. I asked him what it costs to maintain. He laughed and broke it down: climate-controlled storage is $15,000 a year. “Collector car” insurance is another $20,000. Annual fluid changes, battery tenders, and basic servicing for all cars, even if they aren’t driven, runs about $25,000. He budgets about 5-7% of the collection’s value for annual running costs alone—a staggering $50,000 to $70,000 a year just to keep the cars in pristine condition.
I Analyzed 500 Listings: The Best Day of the Week to Buy a Luxury Car
I was hunting for a used Audi and tracked 500 listings across major sites for a month. I discovered a clear pattern. Most new listings appeared online between Thursday and Saturday as dealers prepared for weekend shoppers. However, by Monday and Tuesday, salespeople are eager to hit their weekly goals and are more willing to negotiate on cars that didn’t sell over the weekend. I made my move on a Tuesday morning, catching the sales manager before the week got busy, and negotiated a price well below what they were holding firm on Saturday.
The “Demo Car” Secret: New Car Smell, Used Car Price
I wanted a new Volvo XC90, but the price was just out of reach. I asked the sales manager if they had any “demo” or “loaner” cars for sale. These are new cars used by the dealership for test drives or as service loaners. He showed me a model with 4,000 miles on it—identical to the new one I wanted. Because it was technically “used,” they knocked $8,000 off the sticker price, but it still qualified for new car financing rates and the full factory warranty. It was the perfect way to get a new car without paying the new car premium.
How to Tell if a “Good Deal” on a Luxury Car is Actually a Flood Car
A private seller offered me a late-model Range Rover for $10,000 below market value. The deal seemed too good to be true. I paid $50 for a comprehensive vehicle history report, which came back clean. But then I inspected the car myself. I lifted the carpets and found silt and rust on the seat bolts. There was a faint, musty smell I couldn’t place. Those were classic signs of flood damage. The seller had “title washed” the car by registering it in a different state to hide its salvage history. That “good deal” was a water-logged nightmare.
The Financial Argument for Buying a Rolls-Royce (Yes, Really)
A wealth manager once explained why his ultra-rich client bought a $500,000 Rolls-Royce. It wasn’t about transportation; it was an “ultra-luxury good,” like a Patek Philippe watch or a Birkin bag. Unlike a Mercedes that depreciates rapidly, handcrafted cars from Rolls-Royce are produced in such limited numbers that, after an initial drop, they can hold their value or even appreciate over decades. For his client, parking $500,000 in a car that might be worth $450,000 in ten years was a better and far more enjoyable “investment” than watching a tech stock go to zero.
Getting Out of a Luxury Car Lease Early Without Ruining Your Credit
My friend needed to get out of his BMW lease one year early due to a move overseas. The dealer told him he’d have to pay the remaining 12 payments—over $9,000. Instead, he used a lease-trading website like Swapalease. He listed his car, offering a small cash incentive. A buyer looking for a short-term lease with a low payment took over his contract. The transfer was handled officially through BMW Financial Services, legally releasing my friend from the lease and leaving his credit score completely untouched. It cost him a $500 incentive, not $9,000.
Auction vs. Private Party vs. Dealer: Where to Get the Best Price
I was shopping for a used Lexus IS 350. The dealer wanted $30,000, offering a warranty and convenience. A private party seller listed a similar one for $26,000, but I’d need to arrange my own inspection and financing. Then I checked a dealer auction list (accessible through a friend) and saw similar cars selling for $23,000. The auction was the cheapest but carried the most risk (no test drive, sold as-is). The dealer was the safest but most expensive. Private party was the happy medium, offering great value with a bit more work.
How Much “Car” Can You Actually Afford? The 20/4/10 Rule for Luxury
I was tempted to buy a Porsche Cayman that would have stretched me thin. My financially savvy friend stopped me and introduced the 20/4/10 rule. It states you should: 1) Make a 20% down payment. 2) Finance for no more than 4 years (48 months). 3) Ensure your total monthly car expenses (payment, insurance, fuel) are less than 10% of your gross monthly income. I ran the numbers on the Porsche and failed on all three counts. It was a simple, unemotional gut check that forced me to choose a more affordable car and protect my financial health.
The Hidden Fees in a Luxury Car Contract That Add Up to Thousands
I had negotiated a great price on a new Mercedes, but when I got to the finance office, the final number was $3,000 higher. They had added a $995 “dealer prep” fee, a $799 “etching” security fee, and a $1,200 “paint protection” package I never asked for. These are pure profit for the dealer. I calmly told them to remove every single one. I said, “I’m buying the car, not your high-profit add-ons.” After some back-and-forth, they removed them all. Always read the final buyer’s order line-by-line before you sign anything.
Why I Chose a 10-Year-Old Aston Martin Over a New Corvette
I had $80,000 to spend. I could have bought a brand-new Corvette C8, a technological marvel. Instead, I bought a 10-year-old, V12-powered Aston Martin DB9. The Corvette would have lost $20,000 in depreciation in the first two years. The DB9, having already taken its biggest depreciation hit, would lose maybe $5,000 in the same period. While the Aston’s maintenance was higher, the depreciation savings far outweighed it. I chose timeless style and a slower financial burn over modern performance and a guaranteed financial loss. It was an emotional and a financial decision.
“Market Adjustment” Fees and How to Refuse to Pay Them
When the new Ford Bronco came out, I went to a dealer who had one on the lot. The sticker price was $60,000, but they had added a second sticker next to it for a $10,000 “Market Adjustment” due to high demand. When I questioned it, the salesman said, “It’s supply and demand.” I replied, “I understand, and my demand is for a dealer who sells at MSRP. I have deposits at two other stores; I’ll simply wait for their call.” His tone changed immediately. Refusing to play their game is your only power against these pure-profit add-ons.
The Startup That’s Disrupting Luxury Car Subscriptions
My friend Sarah loves driving different cars but hates ownership. She used to lease, but found a better way: a luxury car subscription service. For a flat monthly fee of $1,500, she gets a car, insurance, maintenance, and roadside assistance all included. The best part? She can “flip” cars whenever she wants. She drove a Porsche Macan for three months, then swapped it for a convertible BMW for the summer, all through an app. It’s more expensive than leasing one car, but it offers ultimate flexibility and freedom from long-term commitment.
The Ultimate Spreadsheet for Comparing Luxury Car Deals
When I was shopping for a car, I created a detailed spreadsheet. Each row was a specific car I was considering. The columns weren’t just the price; they included estimated insurance costs, annual fuel expense (based on MPG and my mileage), scheduled maintenance costs for the next three years, and projected 3-year depreciation (using online tools). This gave me a “True 3-Year Cost of Ownership” for each car. A seemingly cheaper BMW ended up being more expensive than a Lexus once all the factors were included. The data made the decision for me.
My Credit Score Dropped 100 Points After Buying My Audi. Here’s Why.
I had an excellent 810 credit score. I bought a new Audi and financed $60,000. A month later, I checked my credit and was horrified to see it had dropped to 710. Here’s why: the new $60,000 loan was a huge new installment debt, and my utilization on that loan was nearly 100% (I owed almost the full amount). This combination of a new inquiry, a new account, and high installment utilization temporarily tanked my score. It recovered over the next year as I made payments, but the initial shock was a harsh lesson in how credit scoring works.
The Financial Perks of Owning a Classic Luxury Car
My dad owns a 1985 Mercedes 380SL he bought for $15,000. He loves telling me about the financial perks. First, his insurance is through a “classic car” provider, costing him only $400 a year. Second, in our state, cars over 25 years old are exempt from emissions testing, saving him hassle and money. Finally, because the car is now a collector’s item, it has slowly appreciated in value. He enjoys a beautiful, stylish car that is incredibly cheap to insure and is actually gaining value, unlike almost any new car you can buy today.
What Your Bank Doesn’t Tell You About Exotic Car Loans
When I tried to get a loan for a Ferrari 458, my regular bank, which had given me car loans before, refused. They told me they don’t finance cars over ten years old or with a value over $150,000. I learned that for high-end exotics, you need to go to specialty lenders like Putnam Leasing or a credit union that understands the market. These lenders offer longer terms (up to 144 months), understand that the cars hold value better, and are comfortable with the higher loan amounts. Traditional banks simply don’t operate in that space.
I Rented My Dream Car for a Month. It Cured My Desire to Own It.
I was obsessed with buying a McLaren GT. Before dropping $200,000, I decided to rent one for a full month for $7,000. The first week was pure magic. By the third week, the magic faded. I dreaded taking it to the grocery store for fear of scratches. The stiff suspension was brutal on city streets, and the constant attention was exhausting. After a month, I was happy to give it back. That $7,000 rental saved me from a $200,000 mistake, proving that the fantasy of ownership is often better than the reality.
The One Document That Can Save You Thousands During a Purchase
When negotiating for my BMW, I felt the deal stalling. I then pulled out the most powerful document in car buying: a printed email from another dealer offering a lower price on an identical car. I told my salesman, “I’d rather buy from you because you’re local, but you need to beat this price.” Suddenly, the manager was “able to find” extra incentives. Having a competing, written offer in hand transforms the negotiation from your opinion versus theirs into a simple business decision for them: match the price or lose the sale. It saved me $2,500 instantly.
Why Your Accountant Wants You to Buy a Heavy Luxury SUV
I was debating between a Porsche Cayman and a Cayenne for my small business. My accountant strongly urged me to get the Cayenne. He explained that under Section 179 of the tax code, because the Cayenne has a Gross Vehicle Weight Rating over 6,000 lbs, I could potentially write off up to 100% of its purchase price in the first year. The lighter Cayman would not qualify for this same level of accelerated depreciation. For a business owner, the tax implications of a “heavy” SUV can make it a significantly smarter financial purchase than a sports car.