Maintenance Nightmares & Ownership Realities
My First Year of Porsche 911 Ownership Cost More Than The Down Payment
I proudly put down $10,000 on my dream car, a used Porsche 911. The joy was short-lived. The first year felt like a financial assault. A new set of Michelin Pilot Sport tires was $2,200. The water pump failed, costing $1,800. A routine 60,000-mile major service with spark plugs and brakes ran a shocking $4,500. Then, a sensor for the convertible top failed, adding another $2,000 to the bill. In total, I spent over $10,500 on maintenance alone—more than my entire down payment, a brutal introduction to the true cost of ownership.
The “Check Engine” Light on a Maserati: A $5,000 Story
The amber glow of the check engine light in my Maserati Ghibli sent a shiver down my spine. At the dealership, the diagnosis was an obscure camshaft position sensor. The part itself was only $300. However, the technician explained that to access it, they had to remove the entire front of the engine. The final bill was staggering: $800 for diagnostics and over 25 hours of labor, bringing the total to just over $5,000. It was a terrifying lesson that on an exotic car, the location of a problem is often far more expensive than the problem itself.
I Drove a $250,000 Bentley for a Week. Here’s What Broke.
As a journalist, I was loaned a brand new Bentley Continental GT for a week. It was automotive perfection—for three days. On day four, the passenger-side soft-close door stopped latching, requiring a hard slam. On day six, the stunning rotating digital display got stuck halfway through its rotation, showing only a slab of wood veneer. Nothing I did could fix it. The car drove beautifully, but the failure of these signature luxury features on a car with less than 1,000 miles was a stark reminder that immense cost doesn’t guarantee flawless reliability.
The Real Reason Range Rovers Are Always in the Shop
My neighbor’s Range Rover seemed to live at the dealership. I finally asked him why. He explained it wasn’t one single issue, but a cascade of complex, interrelated systems failing. The air suspension computer would glitch, which would then trigger faults in the traction control, which would then put the car in “limp mode.” The dealer would fix one electronic module, only for another to fail a month later. The car is an amazing technological feat, but that very complexity, from electronics to air ride, is its Achilles’ heel, ensuring constant, frustrating trips for repairs.
How an Independent Mechanic Saved Me $8,000 on My BMW Repair Bill
My five-year-old BMW 750i started smoking. The dealer diagnosed failing valve stem seals, a common issue, and handed me a breathtaking quote for $11,500, citing the need to remove the engine. Devastated, I got a second opinion from a trusted independent BMW specialist. He had a special tool that allowed him to do the same job with the engine in the car. His price, for the exact same repair with OEM parts, was just $3,500. His expertise and lower labor rate saved me a staggering $8,000 and earned him a customer for life.
The Shocking Truth About How Much a Ferrari Oil Change Really Costs
I budgeted for my first annual service on my Ferrari F430, thinking it would be like a pricey Porsche oil change—maybe $700. The service advisor handed me an estimate for $2,500. I was floored. He explained it wasn’t just an “oil change.” It was a “major fluid service” that required removing multiple underbody panels and the rear wheels. It included two different oil filters, 11 quarts of special Shell oil, new gearbox oil, and five hours of labor. On a Ferrari, there is no such thing as a simple, cheap maintenance task.
The “Bulletproof” Luxury Cars You Can Drive for 200,000 Miles
My friend is a surgeon who needs absolute reliability. He doesn’t drive a German sedan; he drives a Lexus LS 460 with 180,000 miles. He says it’s the best car he’s ever owned. Models like the LS, the Lexus LX (a fancy Land Cruiser), and the Acura MDX are legendary for their “bulletproof” nature. They were engineered with reliability, not just performance, as a top priority. While they may lack the soul of a European car, they offer a drama-free luxury experience that can easily cross the 200,000-mile mark with just routine maintenance.
My Warranty Claim Was Denied. Here’s What I Did Next.
My Audi’s transmission failed at 60,000 miles, just out of the factory warranty. The aftermarket warranty company I had paid $4,000 for denied the $7,000 claim, citing a “pre-existing condition” loophole. I was furious. Instead of giving up, I wrote a polite but firm letter to Audi of America’s corporate office. I detailed my loyalty to the brand and the premature failure of a major component. To my surprise, a regional case manager called me. As a gesture of goodwill, they agreed to cover 75% of the repair cost. Sometimes, appealing directly to the manufacturer works.
5 “Simple” DIYs on a Mercedes That Will Actually Save You Thousands
The dealer quoted me $450 to replace the two air filters on my Mercedes E-Class. I watched a YouTube video and saw it was a 15-minute job requiring only a screwdriver. I bought the OEM filters online for $60 and did it myself, saving $390. I did the same for my cabin air filter (a $250 dealer job, a $40 part). Over time, simple DIYs like filters, battery swaps, brake pads, and oil changes—all with plenty of online tutorials—can save a Mercedes owner thousands of dollars a year in inflated dealer labor charges.
The Most Unreliable Luxury Car I’ve Ever Owned (And I’ve Owned 10)
I’ve owned Porsches, BMWs, and Audis, but the most unreliable car I ever had was a fourth-generation Land Rover Discovery. In just two years, it was a comedy of errors. The air suspension failed twice, the sunroof leaked, the infotainment screen went black weekly, and it left me stranded with a mysterious coolant leak. It was incredibly comfortable and capable when it worked, but I spent more time talking to my service advisor than I did driving it. I sold it at a huge loss, emotionally exhausted by its constant need for attention and repairs.
What Dealers Don’t Tell You About Your “Included” Maintenance Plan
My new BMW came with “free” maintenance for three years. I thought it was a great deal. What they don’t tell you is that this plan is extremely basic. It covers an oil change once a year or every 10,000 miles, and maybe filters and brake fluid. It specifically does not cover wear-and-tear items like brake pads, rotors, or tires, which are the most expensive maintenance costs on a performance car. My first brake job was quoted at $2,400, a cost I mistakenly thought my “free” plan would cover. It’s a marketing tool, not comprehensive coverage.
Why Are Parts for an Audi So Expensive? A Deep Dive
My Audi A6 needed a new side mirror assembly after a parking lot mishap. The dealer quoted me $1,800. I was shocked. The parts manager explained why: the single part wasn’t just glass. It was a heated, auto-dimming mirror with an integrated blind-spot monitor, a power-folding motor, and a painted skull cap. It contained multiple computers and sensors. The price reflects the immense technology packed into every component, the lower production volume compared to a Toyota, and a complex international supply chain. On a modern luxury car, there are no “simple” parts anymore.
The One Tool Every Luxury Car Owner Needs to Avoid Dealer Scams
The “check engine” light came on in my Porsche. Instead of panicking and driving to the dealer, I plugged in my $100 OBD-II scanner. The code indicated a minor evaporative emissions leak. I researched the code online and found the most common cause was a loose gas cap. I tightened it, cleared the code with my scanner, and the light never returned. That simple tool saved me a $250 diagnostic fee at the dealership for a problem I fixed myself in 30 seconds. It’s an essential device for diagnosing issues and keeping service departments honest.
My McLaren Spent 90 Days at the Dealer. Here’s the Full Story.
I bought my dream McLaren 570S. Two months in, it developed a transmission fault and went into limp mode. That began a 90-day nightmare. The dealer first had to get diagnostic approval from McLaren in the UK. Then, the specialized parts had to be shipped from England. The first replacement part was faulty, so the whole process started over. There are very few McLaren technicians and a complex global parts system, meaning even a “simple” warranty repair can take a car off the road for an entire season. It was beyond frustrating.
I Tried to Daily Drive a 15-Year-Old Aston Martin. It Was a Disaster.
I bought a gorgeous 2007 Aston Martin V8 Vantage, intending to use it as my daily driver. It was a romantic, terrible idea. The heavy clutch was exhausting in traffic. The car would scrape on every speed bump and driveway. Little electronic gremlins constantly popped up, from window switches to parking sensors. After it left me stranded with a dead battery for the third time in six months, I realized it was a magnificent weekend car, but a fragile and impractical machine for the rigors of daily use.
How to Find a Trustworthy Independent Specialist for Your German Car
When my Audi’s warranty expired, I knew I needed to leave the expensive dealership behind. Finding a good independent mechanic was key. I didn’t use Google Maps; I went to the enthusiast forums like Audizine. I searched for my city and found threads where local owners consistently recommended the same two shops. I called one, and the owner immediately knew the common issues with my specific model. His knowledge and passion were evident. These community-vetted specialists offer dealer-level expertise, or better, at a fraction of the price.
The Tire “Secret” That Can Save You $1,200 a Year on Your Performance Car
My BMW M3 came with Michelin Pilot Sport 4S tires. They were brilliant but wore out in just 10,000 miles, with a replacement set costing a painful $2,000. For my second set, I did some research. I switched to a high-performance all-season tire, the Michelin Pilot Sport All-Season 4. For 95% of my daily driving, I couldn’t tell the difference in performance. But this new set cost only $1,400 and had a treadwear warranty of 45,000 miles. This simple switch saved me hundreds upfront and would save thousands over the life of the car.
The True Cost of “Deferred Maintenance” on a Used Luxury Car
I bought a used Porsche Cayenne S for a great price. The seller said it “just needs a basic service.” That was a lie. My mechanic’s inspection revealed the “basic service” was actually $8,000 of deferred maintenance. The previous owner had skipped everything: the spark plugs were original, the transmission fluid was burnt, the control arm bushings were shot, and the brakes were dangerously low. My “great deal” instantly became a market-price car, but with the added headache of managing all the overdue repairs myself. Always get a pre-purchase inspection.
Is a $5,000 Ceramic Coating Really Worth It? A 3-Year Test
I was skeptical but paid a top detailer $5,000 for a multi-layer ceramic coating and paint protection film on my new black Porsche. Three years later, it has been absolutely worth it. Washing the car is effortless; dirt and water just slide off. The paint has zero swirl marks and has been protected from countless rock chips and bird droppings. My friend with the same car has a front end riddled with chips and scratches. While the upfront cost is huge, it has preserved my car’s finish perfectly, protecting its value and saving me hours of work.
Why I’ll Never Own a Luxury Car Without a Warranty Again
I bought a beautiful, three-year-old Audi RS5 just after its factory warranty expired, wanting to save money by declining the dealer’s extended warranty. Big mistake. Six months into ownership, the notoriously complex dual-clutch transmission failed. The replacement cost was a heart-stopping $14,000. I had to drain my savings to fix it. That single repair would have paid for the best extended warranty on the market three times over. Now, I consider a comprehensive warranty a non-negotiable part of the cost of owning any modern, complex European car.
The Most Common Failure on a Modern BMW (And How to Prevent It)
My BMW 540i hit 70,000 miles, and my independent mechanic urged me to replace the plastic water pump and thermostat preventatively. I hesitated at the $900 cost. A few months later, on a road trip, the pump failed catastrophically, causing the car to overheat. The emergency tow was $300, and the repair at an unfamiliar shop cost $1,500. The plastic cooling system components are a known weak point on most modern BMWs. Replacing them proactively between 60,000 and 80,000 miles is the single best preventative measure to avoid being left stranded.
“Lifetime” Transmission Fluid is a Myth. Here’s Why You Need to Change It.
The manufacturer of my Lexus claimed the transmission had “lifetime” fluid and never needed to be serviced. At 90,000 miles, I noticed my shifts were becoming harsh. My trusted mechanic explained that “lifetime” really just means the lifetime of the warranty. All fluid breaks down with heat and time. He performed a transmission fluid drain and fill for $400. The difference was immediate—the shifts were silky smooth again. That simple service likely saved me from a $6,000 transmission rebuild down the road and proved that “lifetime” claims are marketing, not mechanical reality.
How I Found a Rare Part for My Vintage Jaguar for Almost Nothing
I was restoring a 1972 Jaguar E-Type, and a unique piece of chrome trim for the window was missing. The few specialists who had one wanted over $500 for it. I was stuck. On a whim, I searched for Jaguar enthusiast clubs in the UK. I found an online forum for a small, local club. I posted my query, and a week later, a retired gentleman messaged me. He had the exact part sitting in his garage for 20 years. He refused payment and only asked that I cover the $30 shipping. The enthusiast community is an invaluable resource.
The Hidden Corrosion Problem Plaguing Modern Aluminum-Bodied Cars
I bought a 2016 Ford F-150, proud of its “military-grade” aluminum body that couldn’t rust. A few years later, I noticed bubbles forming under the paint on the hood and tailgate. My body shop explained it was galvanic corrosion. Where steel bolts or components touched the aluminum panels, an electrochemical reaction was causing the aluminum to corrode from the inside out. It wasn’t rust, but it was just as damaging and expensive to fix. It’s a hidden problem on many modern aluminum cars from brands like Jaguar, Land Rover, and Ford.
My Car Was Vandalized. Here’s How Insurance Handled a $10,000 Paint Job.
Someone dragged a key down the entire side of my pearl-white Lexus, from the front fender to the rear quarter panel. I was devastated. The body shop estimate was over $10,000. They explained that to perfectly match the three-stage pearl paint, they had to repaint the entire side of the car, blending the new paint into the doors and roof. Thankfully, my comprehensive insurance policy covered it. I only paid my $500 deductible. It was a harsh reminder of how expensive modern paint finishes are and how crucial comprehensive coverage is.
The Absurd Cost of Replacing a Windshield on a Car with a HUD
A rock hit the windshield on my new Cadillac Escalade. I thought it would be a simple $500 replacement. The quote from the glass company was $2,300. I was stunned. The technician explained that because my car had a heads-up display (HUD), it required a special, acoustically laminated windshield with a specific reflective coating for the HUD to work properly. After installation, the car’s camera systems for lane-keeping assist also had to be recalibrated, which was a $400 charge on its own. It’s a prime example of how one option can dramatically increase repair costs.
I Replaced My Own Brakes on a Porsche. Here’s What I Learned.
The dealer quoted me $2,800 for a front brake job on my Porsche Cayman. I decided to tackle it myself. I bought the OEM pads and rotors online for $900 and followed a step-by-step video guide. It took me a full Saturday, and it was nerve-wracking torqueing everything to spec. But when I was done, I had a massive sense of accomplishment and had saved myself $1,900. I learned that with the right tools and patience, even on a high-performance car, some jobs are very doable for a home mechanic.
The Unexpected Consumables on a Supercar (It’s Not Just Gas and Tires)
After my first track day in my used Lamborghini Gallardo, my mechanic gave me a list of “consumables” that needed replacing. It wasn’t just the tires. The intense heat had warped the brake rotors ($4,000), cooked the brake fluid (requiring a full flush for $500), and—most surprisingly—had worn the clutch significantly. He explained the e-gear transmission eats clutches, and a replacement was a $15,000 job. I quickly learned that on a supercar, “consumables” include major mechanical components that wear out rapidly under hard use, with terrifyingly high replacement costs.
Air Suspension Failure: The Four-Figure Repair Facing Most German SUVs
My wife’s six-year-old Audi Q7 started sagging on one side overnight. The dreaded “Air Suspension Fault” light was on. The diagnosis was a failed air strut, a common issue on almost all German luxury SUVs around the 80,000-mile mark. The single replacement strut from the dealer was $1,800, plus $600 in labor to install and recalibrate the system. The mechanic warned me that the other three were likely on borrowed time. It’s a comfortable ride, but a near-guaranteed multi-thousand-dollar repair bill is the price you pay for that comfort.
The Real Reason You Shouldn’t Take a Luxury Car Through an Automatic Car Wash
I used to take my black BMW through the local tunnel car wash for convenience. After a year, I noticed the paint looked dull and was covered in a fine web of scratches, known as swirl marks. A professional detailer showed me how the harsh, gritty brushes used in automatic washes were scouring my car’s clear coat. He spent two days performing a paint correction that cost $1,500 to restore the finish. Now, I only use the touchless wash or hand-wash it myself. That convenience had secretly been destroying my car’s paint.
How to “Winterize” a High-Performance Car to Avoid Spring Surprises
I store my Corvette every winter. My first year, I just parked it. In the spring, the battery was dead, and the tires had developed flat spots, causing a vibration. Now, I have a strict winterizing routine. I over-inflate the tires to 50 PSI to prevent flat spots, connect a battery tender to keep the battery healthy, add fuel stabilizer to the gas tank to prevent the fuel from going bad, and place mouse traps around the garage. This simple one-hour process ensures the car starts right up and drives perfectly every spring.
My Key Fob Died and It Cost $900 to Replace. Here’s a Cheaper Way.
I lost the key fob for my Range Rover. I called the dealership and was quoted a shocking $900 for a new key and the programming. I did some research and found an independent automotive locksmith. He was able to order an OEM key for me at his wholesale price. He then came to my house with a special laptop and programmed the new key to the car in my driveway. The total cost was $450. He provided the exact same key and service as the dealer for half the price.
The Most Overlooked Maintenance Item That Can Destroy Your Engine
During a routine service on my used Audi, my mechanic showed me the PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) valve he had replaced. He said it was the most important, and most overlooked, piece of preventative maintenance. This small, $150 plastic part is designed to fail. When it does, it can cause high oil consumption and, in worst-case scenarios, can lead to catastrophic engine seal failure. He told me he recommends replacing it every 50,000 miles, calling it the cheapest insurance you can buy for a modern direct-injection engine.
What “Minor” Body Damage Really Costs to Fix on a Luxury Car
Someone backed into my Mercedes in a parking lot, leaving a “minor” dent the size of a fist on the rear quarter panel. There was no paint damage, so I thought it would be a simple fix. The quote was $3,500. The body shop explained that because the quarter panel was aluminum, it couldn’t be easily pulled. And because it was part of the car’s core structure, it had to be repaired perfectly. The labor-intensive process of fixing aluminum, plus recalibrating the parking sensors in the bumper, turned a “minor” dent into a major expense.
How Rodent Damage Became a $4,000 Nightmare on My Audi
I returned from a week-long vacation to find my Audi’s dashboard lit up like a Christmas tree. The dealer called with the bad news: rodents had nested on top of the warm engine and chewed through a major wiring harness. The harness itself was $1,800, but the real cost was the 15 hours of labor to access and replace it, bringing the total repair to over $4,000. It turns out many automakers now use a soy-based wire coating that mice find irresistible. My insurance covered it, but it was a shocking and frustrating ordeal.
Decoding a Pre-Purchase Inspection (PPI): Red Flags to Look For
I paid a specialist $400 for a Pre-Purchase Inspection on a used BMW M3 I wanted to buy. The report he gave me was my bible. He noted minor oil seepage from the valve cover—a common, easy fix. But the big red flag was the diagnostic computer readout. He found multiple “over-rev” events logged in the engine’s computer, indicating the previous owner had abused the car. That single piece of data was a deal-breaker. The PPI isn’t just about finding leaks; it’s about uncovering the car’s hidden history and saving you from buying someone else’s problem.
The Truth About Carbon Ceramic Brakes: Amazing… and Terrifyingly Expensive
My Porsche GT3 came with carbon ceramic brakes. On the track, they were incredible, with zero fade and immense stopping power. The terror came when I asked the dealer about replacement costs. A full set of four new rotors and pads was over $25,000. Even a single chipped rotor from a clumsy tire change would mean replacing it for around $7,000. They are a phenomenal piece of performance technology, but their astronomical replacement cost and fragility for street use make them a financially terrifying proposition for anyone outside of the ultra-wealthy.
Why You Should Never “Jump Start” a Modern Luxury Car
My friend’s Mercedes battery died. A helpful neighbor immediately brought over his truck and a set of jumper cables. As soon as he connected the cables, they heard a pop. He had accidentally reversed the polarity. The resulting power surge fried the Mercedes’ main computer, called a SAM module. The jump start attempt turned a simple dead battery issue into a $3,000 repair. Modern luxury cars are packed with sensitive electronics; using a proper modern jump pack or calling roadside assistance is the only safe way to handle a dead battery.
The Data Behind the Most Reliable Luxury Brand of the Last Decade
I’m an engineer, so I trust data. Before buying my last car, I ignored magazines and analyzed reliability data from sources like Consumer Reports and J.D. Power spanning ten years. The winner wasn’t German or American. Consistently, year after year, Lexus topped the charts. Their philosophy of prioritizing proven technology and meticulous build quality over being first-to-market with unproven features results in fewer problems. I bought a Lexus RX based on that data, and its flawless reliability has proven that sometimes the most boring choice is the smartest one.
My Infotainment System Bricked. The Fix Was Shockingly Simple.
One morning, the large central screen in my Volvo went completely black. No radio, no navigation, no climate control. I feared a multi-thousand-dollar computer replacement. The dealer was booked for weeks. I desperately searched an owner’s forum. A post suggested a “hard reset” by pressing and holding the home button for 20 seconds. I went to my car, tried it, and like magic, the screen flickered and rebooted perfectly. The forum post saved me weeks of waiting and a potentially massive bill, all with a simple, undocumented trick.
The Preventative Maintenance That Doubled My Car’s Lifespan
My mechanic, a 30-year veteran, gave me his secret to longevity for my high-mileage Lexus: “fluid is life.” He advised me to ignore the manufacturer’s “lifetime” fluid recommendations. Every 30,000 miles, we change the differential and transfer case fluids. Every 60,000 miles, we do a transmission fluid drain-and-fill. These services are not in the owner’s manual, but cost only a few hundred dollars each time. This aggressive fluid maintenance keeps the core drivetrain components clean and cool, preventing the wear and tear that kills most cars before their time.
“To The Mile” Service Intervals Are a Lie. Here’s a Better Schedule.
The onboard computer in my BMW said I didn’t need an oil change for 15,000 miles. My independent mechanic laughed. He showed me oil analysis reports from cars that followed those long intervals—they were full of fuel and metal contaminants. Long intervals are designed to lower the advertised cost of ownership, not maximize engine life. For a healthy engine, especially a turbocharged one, the rule is simple: change the oil every 5,000 to 7,000 miles, or once a year, regardless of what the computer says. It’s the cheapest insurance for your engine.
How a Simple Software Update Can Fix (or Create) Major Problems
My Jaguar F-Pace had a jerky transmission. I was sure it was a mechanical issue. When I took it to the dealer, they didn’t even put it on a lift. The technician simply plugged in a laptop and performed a software update on the transmission control module. The 30-minute update completely smoothed out the shifts. Conversely, my friend’s Porsche received an over-the-air update that introduced a bug causing his infotainment system to crash constantly. In modern cars, the software is just as critical—and as prone to issues—as the hardware.
The Aftermarket Parts I Trust (And The Ones I Avoid at All Costs)
When repairing my German cars, I’ve learned to be selective with aftermarket parts. For critical suspension and engine components, I only trust OEM suppliers like Lemförder, Bosch, or ZF—the same companies that make the parts for the car manufacturer. They offer dealer quality without the dealer markup. For brakes, I trust brands like Zimmerman or Akebono. However, I avoid no-name, cheap electronic sensors and “white box” parts from eBay at all costs. A faulty $30 sensor can cause thousands in diagnostic headaches, making it a terrible place to try and save money.
Why Are Headlight Assemblies on a Lexus So Expensive?
A fender bender cracked the headlight on my wife’s Lexus RX. The body shop quoted $3,200 to replace the single headlight assembly. I was in disbelief. He showed me the part breakdown. It wasn’t just a bulb and a housing. It was an adaptive, auto-leveling, full LED matrix unit with multiple projectors that swivel as you turn the wheel. It also contained its own cooling fan and a complex control module. The price reflected a sophisticated piece of technology, not a simple lightbulb. It was a brutal lesson in the cost of modern car tech.
The Emotional Toll of an Unreliable Dream Car
I finally bought my high school dream car, a Maserati GranTurismo. It was gorgeous and sounded divine. But the ownership experience was pure anxiety. Every drive was overshadowed by the fear of what might break next. The “check engine” light came on so often I put a piece of tape over it. I’d flinch at every new sound. The joy was completely replaced by stress and the dread of another four-figure repair bill. I sold it after a year, emotionally drained. Sometimes, meeting your heroes is a terrible, expensive disappointment.
How to Detail Your Luxury Car Like a Pro for Under $100
I was paying a detailer $200 every few months to make my car shine. I decided to learn myself. I bought a high-quality pH-neutral car soap, a few plush microfiber towels, a clay bar kit, and a good quality carnauba wax—all for under $100. Following the “two-bucket” wash method to prevent scratches, then claying the paint to remove contaminants, and finally applying a thin coat of wax, I was able to achieve the same, if not better, results than the pros. It takes an afternoon, but it’s satisfying and saves a fortune.
The Strange Noises My Rolls-Royce Makes (And Which Ones Are Normal)
When I first drove my used Rolls-Royce Ghost, I was alarmed by all the subtle noises. There was a quiet whirring from under the seat when I unlocked it and a soft hum from the engine bay long after I shut it off. I took it to a specialist, worried something was wrong. He smiled and explained they were all normal. The whirring was the suspension pre-pressurizing, and the hum was a small pump circulating coolant to prevent heat soak in the turbos. On a hyper-complex car, learning to distinguish between a “normal” strange noise and a “bad” one is a key part of ownership.
I Tracked My Fuel Economy for a Year in a V12. The Results Are Hilarious.
I bought a V12-powered Mercedes S65 AMG, a car famous for its titanic power and thirst. For fun, I tracked every single tank of premium fuel for a full year. The results were comically bad. My best-ever mileage on a long highway trip was 16 miles per gallon. My average for mixed driving was a painful 11 MPG. In heavy city traffic, I once saw the computer dip to 6 MPG. The car was magnificent, a silent, leather-lined rocket ship, but it provided a constant, expensive reminder that physics is undefeated.
The Final Bill: Selling My “Problem” Car and What It Really Cost Me
I owned a BMW 650i for three years. I bought it for $30,000. Over those three years, I spent a documented $12,000 on non-routine maintenance, including valve stem seals and turbo coolant lines. I finally got fed up and sold it for just $15,000. When I did the math, the car cost me $27,000 in depreciation and repairs for 36 months of ownership. That works out to a staggering $750 per month, not including insurance or gas. It was a sobering final calculation of the true, painful cost of owning a beautiful but troublesome car.