How I Bought My Dream ’69 Camaro for Less Than a New Honda Civic
It’s a myth that dream classics are financially out of reach. I had saved up for a new Honda Civic, but I spent my nights scrolling through ads for 1969 Camaros. I found one listed for twenty-four thousand dollars. It wasn’t perfect—the paint was faded and the interior needed work—but the engine was strong and the frame was solid. The seller was an older man who simply wanted it to go to a good home. By prioritizing mechanical health over cosmetic perfection, I drove home in my dream car for less than a new sedan, proving that affordability is possible.
The 7 Red Flags I Ignored When Buying My First Vintage Car (And What It Cost Me)
Excitement can be expensive. My first classic was a beautiful blue Mustang I found online. I was so in love that I ignored the seller’s vague answers about its history, the slightly mismatched paint on the door, and the faint smell of gas in the cabin. I thought they were minor quirks. Those “quirks” turned into a five-thousand-dollar bill to fix a hidden fuel leak, repair shoddy bodywork, and replace a faulty sending unit. The lesson was costly: create a list of non-negotiable red flags and walk away if you see them, no matter how much you love the car.
The “10-Foot Rule” and Other Pro Secrets for Inspecting a Classic Car
The “10-Foot Rule” is a classic car inspection secret: if a car looks perfect from 10 feet away, it’s hiding something. I learned this from an old pro while looking at a GTO. From a distance, its paint was flawless. But up close, he showed me tiny paint bubbles near the wheel wells—a telltale sign of rust underneath. He also taught me to bring a small magnet to check for plastic body filler on steel panels. These simple tricks help you see past a car’s polished exterior and evaluate its true condition, separating showpieces from honest cars.
Why Your First Classic Car Should Cost Less Than $10,000
Your first classic car is your education, and tuition should be affordable. My friend Mark spent his entire thirty-thousand-dollar budget on a “perfect” Corvette. When the transmission unexpectedly failed a month later, he couldn’t afford the four-thousand-dollar repair, and the car sat for a year. I bought a ten-thousand-dollar Datsun 280Z. It wasn’t as flashy, but when it needed work, I had plenty of cash left over for repairs and upgrades. Starting small lets you learn about maintenance and ownership without the financial stress, making the hobby enjoyable instead of a burden.
I Flew 1,000 Miles for a “Perfect” Car—Here’s the Nightmare I Found
Never trust photos alone. I saw an online listing for a “pristine” Porsche 914, and the pictures were stunning. After a dozen reassuring emails with the seller, I booked a one-way flight from Chicago to Dallas, cash in hand. When I arrived, the car was a disaster. The “pristine” paint was a cheap spray job covering deep rust, the engine smoked heavily, and the floor pans were patched with street signs. I had to book a last-minute flight home, wasting nearly one thousand dollars. Always get a local, independent pre-purchase inspection before traveling for any car.
The Real Cost of Your First Vintage Car (It’s Not the Purchase Price)
The sticker price is just the entry fee. I bought my first classic, a Triumph TR6, for a reasonable twelve thousand dollars. I was thrilled. Then came the real costs. In the first year, I spent another four thousand dollars on new tires, a clutch replacement, a carburetor rebuild, specialized insurance, and property taxes. The purchase price is only about 70% of your first-year total cost. You must budget for immediate maintenance, repairs, and administrative fees to avoid having your dream car become a garage ornament you can’t afford to drive or fix.
Decoding a Seller’s Lies: What “Minor Rust” and “Easy Project” Actually Mean
In classic car ads, some phrases have hidden meanings. When a seller says “minor rust,” you should assume it’s hiding major corrosion that will cost thousands to fix. When they say “easy project,” it often means the car is completely disassembled or needs fundamental work just to run. I once looked at a Chevelle advertised with “minor electrical gremlins.” It turned out the entire wiring harness was fried. Always translate seller-speak into the worst-case scenario and let your own thorough inspection, not the ad, tell you the real story.
How to Negotiate a Vintage Car Deal Like a Pro (Even if You’re Terrified)
Negotiation isn’t about confrontation; it’s about preparation. When I went to buy my Fiat Spider, I was terrified. Instead of arguing, I came prepared. I had printed three listings for similar cars priced lower. During my inspection, I calmly pointed out the worn tires and a small oil leak, saying, “I’ll need to budget about one thousand dollars for this.” I then made a respectful offer based on that evidence. The seller, seeing I had done my homework, agreed. Knowledge is your best weapon—use facts, not emotions, to justify your offer.
The Only 5 Tools You Need to Bring When Inspecting a Classic Car
You don’t need a rolling toolbox to perform a solid initial inspection. When I check out a car, I only bring five simple things. First, a strong flashlight to look under the car and in the engine bay. Second, a small magnet to detect plastic body filler on steel panels. Third, a clean rag to check fluids like oil and transmission fluid. Fourth, a notepad to write down issues and VIN numbers. And fifth, a camera phone to document everything. These five items helped me dodge a beautifully painted but rust-filled Impala, saving me from a costly mistake.
“Numbers Matching”: Why This One Phrase Can Double a Car’s Value
“Numbers matching” means a car has its original, factory-installed engine and transmission. The serial numbers stamped on these parts match the car’s Vehicle Identification Number (VIN). My friend owned a 1970 Plymouth ‘Cuda. A similar-looking ‘Cuda sold for thirty thousand dollars. His, however, was “numbers matching.” A collector verified the engine block stamp, and he sold it for over seventy thousand dollars. For high-end muscle cars and sports cars, this single factor proves authenticity and historical purity, making it one of the most important value-adders in the collector world.
Should Your First Classic Be a Project Car or a Turn-Key Driver? A Brutally Honest Guide
This choice depends entirely on your goals. A turn-key driver lets you enjoy the hobby immediately—attending car shows and going for weekend drives from day one. My neighbor bought a running MGB and has loved every minute. In contrast, a project car is for those who love the process of building as much as driving. I bought a non-running VW Beetle as a project. It took two years and countless hours in the garage before my first drive. If you want to drive, buy a driver. If you want to learn to wrench, buy a project.
How I Found My First Classic Car on Facebook Marketplace Without Getting Scammed
Facebook Marketplace is full of gems, but you have to be smart. I found my classic pickup there, but only after weeding through dozens of shady listings. My rules were simple: I only engaged with sellers who had detailed descriptions and lots of clear photos. I checked their public profile to see if they seemed like a real person. Most importantly, I insisted on a phone call before meeting. Hearing their voice and asking direct questions helped me gauge their honesty. This simple vetting process screened out the scammers and led me to an honest seller with a great truck.
The Underrated “Starter” Classics That Are Still Affordable in 2024
You don’t need a Mustang or Camaro to have fun. Many fantastic “starter” classics are still very affordable because they fly under the radar. Think of cars like the Ford Falcon, Volvo 122S, or a 1980s Mercedes-Benz sedan. My first classic was a 1974 Mercury Comet. It shared most of its parts with the Ford Maverick, so they were cheap and easy to find. For under eight thousand dollars, I got a reliable, cool-looking car that was unique at car shows. Look beyond the obvious icons to find great value and an easier ownership experience.
Watch This Before You Even THINK About Buying a Classic Car from a Dealer
Buying from a classic car dealer offers convenience, but be cautious. Dealers have to make a profit, so their prices are higher, and they are experts at making cars look better than they are. My cousin was tempted by a shiny Corvette at a local dealership. He almost signed the papers until I convinced him to get an independent inspection. The mechanic found a poorly repaired frame crack hidden under fresh undercoating. While some dealers are reputable, never assume their “in-house inspection” is unbiased. Always get your own expert opinion before buying from a lot.
The Hidden Paperwork That Can Kill Your Classic Car Dream
The car can be perfect, but the wrong paperwork can make it worthless. A friend bought a beautiful Karmann Ghia from out of state. The seller gave him a bill of sale but couldn’t find the title. He spent six months and over a thousand dollars in legal fees navigating a complex “bonded title” process with the DMV. Before you hand over any cash, confirm the seller has a clean, correct title in their name. The name on the title must match the seller’s ID. Mismatched paperwork is a massive red flag that can become a legal nightmare.
A Step-by-Step Guide to the Pre-Purchase Inspection I Use on Every Car
A systematic inspection prevents you from falling in love with a bad car. I use the same process every time. I start with the exterior, checking for rust and body filler. Then, I move to the interior, checking for water damage and electrical function. Next is the engine bay—I look for leaks and listen to the engine run from a cold start. After that, I get underneath to inspect the frame, suspension, and exhaust. Finally, a thorough test drive. This methodical approach helped me notice a bent frame on a Chevelle that looked perfect otherwise, saving me from disaster.
How a $100 Expert Opinion Saved Me From a $15,000 Mistake
The best money you can spend is on a pre-purchase inspection (PPI). I found what I thought was the perfect BMW 2002 for fifteen thousand dollars. The seller was friendly, and the car drove well. Still, I paid a local vintage BMW specialist one hundred dollars to look it over. Within 30 minutes, he discovered the shock towers, a critical structural area, were riddled with rust and poorly patched. The repair would have cost over five thousand dollars. That expert’s opinion was the cheapest and most valuable part of my entire car search.
The Emotional Mistakes First-Time Classic Car Buyers Always Make
First-time buyers often shop with their hearts, not their heads. The biggest mistake is falling in love at first sight. You see the car of your dreams and immediately get “tunnel vision,” ignoring obvious flaws because you’ve already imagined yourself driving it. Another mistake is rushing the purchase out of fear that someone else will buy it. I once overpaid for a Mustang because the seller said he had “another buyer coming this afternoon.” Don’t fall for it. Patience is key. There will always be another car, so take your time and make a logical decision.
Buying Sight-Unseen: How to Do It Safely in a Digital World
Buying a car you haven’t seen in person is risky but can be done safely. The key is to remove yourself from the equation and hire a professional. When I bought my Bronco from a seller 1,500 miles away, I hired a specialized classic car inspection service in his city. For three hundred dollars, they sent a certified mechanic who provided a 20-page report with over 100 photos and videos, detailing everything from paint thickness to engine compression. This independent, expert report gave me the confidence to wire the money. Never rely solely on the seller’s word or pictures.
Why I’ll Never Buy a “Freshly Restored” Car Again
A “freshly restored” car sounds perfect, but it often hides shortcuts. I bought a beautifully painted Camaro that had just undergone a two-year restoration. Within six months, the paint started bubbling, the wiring failed, and the transmission leaked. The “restorer” had focused on making it look good for a quick sale, using cheap materials and cutting corners on the mechanical work. I learned it’s often safer to buy a well-maintained original car or one restored years ago. Time reveals the true quality of a restoration; a fresh one has no track record.
The Genius Way to Test Drive a Vintage Car to Expose Its Flaws
A proper test drive is more than a trip around the block. My mentor taught me a specific routine. First, have the seller drive so you can listen for noises without the distraction of driving. Next, you drive. Start with slow, tight circles in a parking lot to check for suspension clunks. Then, find a bumpy road to reveal rattles. On a smooth road, accelerate hard to test the engine and transmission, then brake firmly (but safely) to check for pulling. This 15-minute sequence is a mini-interrogation that forces the car to reveal its secrets.
“Survivor” vs. “Restored”: Which is the Smarter Investment for a Beginner?
For a beginner, a “survivor” is often the smarter choice. A survivor is an unrestored, well-maintained original car. My friend bought a survivor Oldsmobile. Its paint is faded, but it’s honest and reliable because it has never been completely taken apart. A “restored” car, on the other hand, is only as good as the person who did the work. A bad restoration can introduce endless problems. A survivor’s flaws are out in the open, making it a known quantity. It’s a safer, more predictable entry into the classic car world.
The 3 Questions I Ask Every Seller That Tell Me Everything I Need to Know
These three questions cut through the noise. First, I ask, “How long have you owned it?” A short ownership period (less than a year) is a red flag that they may have discovered a major issue and are trying to flip it. Second, “Why are you selling it?” A vague answer like “just time for something new” is suspicious. A specific reason like “I need garage space for a new project” is more credible. Third, “What’s the one thing you would fix if you were keeping it?” An honest seller will have a ready answer.
How to Spot a Flipped Car from a Mile Away
A “flipped” car is one bought cheap, given a quick cosmetic cleanup, and relisted for a large profit. To spot one, look for signs of a rushed job. My telltale sign is fresh, cheap undercoating sprayed over everything underneath—it’s often used to hide rust or leaks. Another is a brand-new, cheap interior (like seat covers and carpets) in an otherwise worn-out car. Also, check the seller’s profile or ask how long they’ve owned it. If they’ve only had it for a few months and have no personal stories, you’re likely dealing with a flipper.
My First Classic Car Taught Me More About Money Than My Finance Degree
Owning a classic car is a masterclass in budgeting and return on investment. My finance degree taught me theory, but my eight-thousand-dollar Fiat taught me reality. I learned to prioritize needs (brakes) over wants (new wheels). I discovered the concept of “sweat equity” by realizing my weekend of work replacing the alternator saved me three hundred dollars. It forced me to create a sinking fund for unexpected repairs. This hands-on financial management—balancing a passion with practical costs—was more impactful than any textbook lesson on managing assets.
The Perfect “First Classic” for Every Budget: $5k, $15k, and $30k
The perfect first classic aligns your budget with reliability and parts availability. For a five-thousand-dollar budget, look at a Ford Falcon or a VW Beetle—simple, tough, with huge community support. At fifteen thousand dollars, your options open up to a V8 Ford Mustang, an MGB, or a Datsun 280Z—iconic cars with strong aftermarket support. Once you reach thirty thousand dollars, you can get a very nice turn-key driver like a Chevrolet C10 pickup, a Pontiac Firebird, or an early Porsche 944. Each tier offers a fantastic entry into the hobby with manageable risks.
Why I Bought a “Boring” Classic Car and It Was the Best Decision I Ever Made
Everyone wants a flashy muscle car, but “boring” classics are often better. I bought a 1985 Volvo 240 wagon. My friends laughed. But that car was dead reliable, parts were dirt cheap, and I could use it for anything—from weekend cruises to trips to the hardware store. While my friend’s Camaro was constantly in the shop, my “boring” Volvo was always ready to go. It taught me that the best classic car is the one you can actually drive and enjoy regularly, not the one that just looks good sitting in the garage.
Financing a Dream: How People Actually Pay for $50,000+ Classic Cars
For high-dollar classics, buyers rarely use cash from their checking account. Many use specialized financing. My uncle bought a sixty-thousand-dollar Corvette using a loan from a specialty lender like LightStream or J.J. Best Banc & Co. These companies understand classic car values and offer long-term loans, similar to a mortgage. Others use a Home Equity Line of Credit (HELOC), borrowing against their home’s value. For a true investor, the car is an asset, and they leverage other assets to acquire it, making the purchase a calculated financial move rather than a simple cash transaction.
The Ultimate Checklist: 50 Things to Check Before Buying a Vintage Car
A comprehensive checklist turns a chaotic inspection into a methodical process. My checklist has saved me countless times. It starts with paperwork (title, VIN match) and moves to the body (rust, panel gaps, magnet test). Then it covers the engine (leaks, smoke, sounds), drivetrain, suspension, brakes, electrical (every single switch), and interior. I even have a section for the test drive. When inspecting a Triumph, my list forced me to check the heater, which was disconnected—a sign of a leaking heater core the seller “forgot” to mention. A checklist prevents you from overlooking crucial details.
Don’t Fall for These 5 Common Seller Photo Tricks
Photos can lie. A common trick is taking pictures of a car right after it rains. The water makes faded paint look glossy and deep. Another is taking photos at dusk or in a dim garage to hide paint flaws and body filler. Sellers also use clever angles to conceal dents or rust on the lower parts of the car. I almost drove three hours for a car that looked great in photos, until I asked for a video walk-around in bright sunlight. The video revealed a huge dent that was perfectly hidden in every picture.
How to Read an Auction Listing to Find a Hidden Gem
Auction listings are full of clues. To find a gem, I ignore the glamour shots and look for details. I read the entire description; a short, vague one is a red flag. I focus on documentation—listings that show service records or restoration photos are a great sign. The best clue is a “no reserve” auction from a long-term owner. This often means the seller is motivated by life changes, not just profit. I once won a fantastic, well-documented Mercedes at a great price this way, while others were distracted by flashier, less-proven cars.
The Truth About Classic Car Depreciation (or Appreciation)
Not all classics appreciate; most are depreciating assets you spend money on for fun. While a rare Ferrari might be a great investment, your twenty-thousand-dollar Mustang is not a retirement plan. Think of it like a boat. You buy it for the enjoyment, and you accept the costs of fuel, maintenance, and storage. My classic truck has probably cost me more than it’s worth, but the joy it brings is the real return. A few popular models do appreciate, but buy a classic because you love it, not because you think it will make you rich.
Why a 4-Door Classic Can Be a Genius First Purchase
Everyone wants the 2-door coupe, which makes the 4-door sedan a hidden bargain. When I was looking for a classic, a 2-door ’65 Chevelle was twenty-five thousand dollars. I found a 4-door Chevelle sedan in similar condition for just eight thousand dollars. It had the same V8 engine, the same cool dashboard, and the same classic feel. Plus, I could actually fit my friends in the back. For a first-time buyer, a 4-door offers the same style and experience for a fraction of the price, with cheaper insurance and purchase costs.
The Best Time of Year to Get a Deal on a Vintage Car
Timing is everything. The best deals are found in the late fall and winter. When snow starts to fall in northern climates, sellers get tired of storing their cars and are more motivated to sell before winter. I bought my classic convertible in November. The seller was facing six months of storage fees and was eager to make a deal. In contrast, demand and prices skyrocket in the spring, as everyone gets excited for sunny driving weather. Shop in the off-season when there’s less competition and sellers are more negotiable.
How My Dad-Bod Daily Driver Became a Head-Turning Classic
A “classic” doesn’t have to be from the 1960s. The 20-year rule is a great guideline: cars from the 80s and 90s are now entering classic status. For years, my daily driver was a 1995 Ford F-150. It was just an old truck. But as I kept it in good shape, something changed. Younger people started giving me thumbs-ups. At gas stations, older guys would say, “I had one of those! Best truck I ever owned.” It slowly transformed from a “dad-bod” beater into a head-turning “rad-era” classic, proving that time can make any well-loved car cool.
The One Document That Proves You’re Not Buying a Lemon
The most valuable document is a folder of service records. When I was looking at two similar BMWs, one seller had a thick binder with receipts for every oil change, suspension part, and repair dating back a decade. The other seller just said, “I have my mechanic take care of it.” I bought the one with the records. That folder is proof of meticulous care. It tells the car’s life story and shows that the owner invested in maintenance, not just cosmetic cleanups. It’s the single best indicator of a car’s health and the best protection against buying a lemon.
Overcoming “Paralysis by Analysis” in Your First Classic Car Search
It’s easy to get overwhelmed by endless options and what-if scenarios. I spent six months researching, creating spreadsheets, and watching every YouTube video. I became so afraid of making a mistake that I didn’t look at any cars in person. This is “paralysis by analysis.” My dad finally told me, “You have to go drive some.” I did, and it changed everything. Feeling the cars, talking to sellers, and seeing them in person made my choice clear. Do your homework, but then you have to get out there. Your perfect car won’t be found on a spreadsheet.
Is It Smarter to Buy a Common Mustang or a Rare Studebaker?
For a first-time buyer, it is almost always smarter to buy the common Mustang. I learned this the hard way. My first car was a rare AMC Marlin. It was unique, but when I needed a simple window crank, it took me six months to find one. My friend with a Ford Mustang could get any part he needed delivered to his door in two days for a low price. The massive community and aftermarket support for a common classic makes ownership cheaper, easier, and more enjoyable for a beginner. Leave the rare Studebaker for your second or third classic.
The Car Community Myth That Costs Newbies Thousands
The biggest myth is, “Just buy what you love.” While passion is important, it’s terrible advice if taken literally. My cousin loved the look of vintage Italian cars, so he bought a cheap Alfa Romeo. He ignored advice about its notorious rust issues and electrical problems. What he “loved” quickly turned into a ten-thousand-dollar money pit that never ran right. The better advice is: “Find a car you love within a category of cars known for being reliable and well-supported.” Your heart picks the style, but your brain must pick the model.
How to Tell if “Patina” is Actually Just “Damage”
“Patina” is the gentle, honest wear a car acquires over decades—faded original paint, a worn steering wheel, or a sun-baked dash. It tells a story. Damage is neglect. When I looked at a pickup advertised with “great patina,” I saw something different. The “patina” on the roof was actually surface rust about to eat through the metal. The worn seat was ripped open with stuffing falling out. Patina is earned and stable; damage is active deterioration that will cost you money to fix. One is character, the other is a looming repair bill.
What an Oil Leak Can Tell You About a Car’s Entire History
An oil leak is a window into a car’s past. A small, slow drip from a valve cover on an old V8 might be normal. But when I inspected a classic Jaguar, I saw clean oil on the ground. The seller said, “Oh, it’s just a small leak.” I looked closer and saw the entire underside of the engine was caked in old, thick grease and grime. The fresh drip meant he had power-washed it to hide years of severe leaks. This told me he was a dishonest seller who likely neglected the entire car, not just the gaskets.
The Unspoken Etiquette of Making an Offer on a Classic
Making an offer is a dance. First, never make an offer without seeing the car in person. It’s disrespectful. Second, don’t insult the car. Instead of saying, “This rust is terrible,” say, “I’ll need to budget for some bodywork here.” After your inspection, thank the owner for their time. If you make a low offer, justify it respectfully with the issues you found. I once offered 20% below asking price but explained my reasoning point by point. The owner appreciated my homework, and we met in the middle. Be polite, prepared, and fair.
The Logical Reason I Chose an Automatic Over a Manual for My First Classic
While enthusiasts scream “save the manuals,” an automatic is often a smarter choice for a first classic. I specifically sought out an automatic for my Oldsmobile Cutlass. Why? It simplified the driving experience, letting me focus on the sounds, smells, and feel of an old car without also worrying about a heavy clutch in traffic. It was also cheaper to buy. Automatics are often less stressed over their lifetime and make for a more relaxing cruiser. It made my entry into the hobby more accessible and enjoyable, which is the whole point of a first classic car.
How I Built My “Classic Car Fund” on a Regular Salary
Building a dedicated fund makes the dream feel achievable. On my regular office salary, I started by opening a separate high-yield savings account named “Classic Car Fund.” Seeing that name kept me motivated. I automated a transfer of two hundred dollars every payday. I also funneled any “found money”—like a work bonus or a tax refund—directly into it. I cut one major expense (daily coffee shop visits) and redirected that money. It took three years, but by making it automatic and giving every dollar a purpose, I saved fifteen thousand dollars without feeling deprived.
Breaking Down the True Cost of Shipping a Car Across the Country
Shipping a car is more than just the quote. The price depends on distance, vehicle size, and whether you choose an open or enclosed trailer. I shipped my car from California to Texas. The quote for an open carrier was nine hundred dollars. An enclosed carrier, which protects it from weather and road debris, was fifteen hundred dollars. I chose enclosed for peace of mind. Remember to factor in insurance (confirm the carrier’s coverage) and be prepared for timing fluctuations. The delivery window is often a week-long estimate, so you need a flexible schedule.
Why Your Spouse’s Approval is the Most Important Part of the Deal
A classic car takes up more than just garage space; it consumes time, money, and emotional energy. Before I bought my first one, I had a long talk with my wife. We didn’t just discuss the purchase price; we budgeted for potential repairs and agreed on how much weekend time would be “car time.” Getting her enthusiastic approval meant she became my partner in the hobby. When I needed to spend a Saturday fixing a surprise leak, she was supportive, not resentful. Without that buy-in, a dream car can quickly become a source of conflict.
How to Use Online Forums to Vet a Potential Car Purchase
Online forums are a treasure trove of expert knowledge. Before I went to see a Triumph Spitfire, I joined a popular Triumph forum. I posted the listing and asked, “Anything specific I should look for on this model?” Within hours, I got detailed advice from long-time owners about checking for frame rust near the rear differential and specific weak spots in the transmission. One member even recognized the car and told me its history. This free, expert advice is invaluable and can arm you with knowledge that even a general mechanic might not have.
The “Safe” Classic Car Brands for Beginners
For beginners, “safe” means excellent parts availability, strong community support, and straightforward mechanics. The safest brands are American giants like Ford, Chevrolet, and Dodge (for cars from the 50s-70s). Parts for a classic Mustang or Camaro are available everywhere. For imports, vintage Volkswagen, Volvo, and Mercedes-Benz are fantastic choices. Their cars were over-engineered and have dedicated followings. I recommended a Volvo 122 to a friend for her first classic. She loved it because she could easily find parts and watch tutorials for almost any repair, making ownership far less intimidating.
I Bought the Cheapest Running Vintage Porsche in the Country. Here’s What Happened.
There’s no such thing as a cheap Porsche. I found a running Porsche 924 for just four thousand dollars—a price that seemed too good to be true. And it was. “Running” meant it could start and move, but barely. The fuel injection system was a nightmare, the wiring was a mess, and the clutch was slipping. Over the next year, I spent another six thousand dollars just to make it reliable, and it still had cosmetic issues. The lesson is famous for a reason: the most expensive car you can buy is often a cheap luxury or sports car.
My Regret Letter: The Perfect Car I Let Get Away
Dear Blue 1972 Datsun 240Z, I’m sorry I let you go. You were listed for a fair price, owned by a meticulous enthusiast who had every receipt. Your engine hummed perfectly. But I hesitated. I wanted to see just one more car, convinced I could find a slightly better deal. By the time I called back two days later, you were sold. I spent the next six months searching, only to find rust buckets and overpriced projects. My hesitation cost me the perfect car. This is my letter of regret, a reminder that when you find the right one, act.