I Put a Hellcat Engine in a 1969 Dodge Charger. Here’s How Insane It Is.
My friend’s restomod Charger looks stock, but it’s a monster. He swapped in a 707-horsepower supercharged Hellcat V8. The first time he took me for a ride, it idled with a quiet hum. Then he floored it. The supercharger whined, the tires exploded in smoke, and my head slammed against the seat. It was a brutal, violent acceleration I’ve only felt in a supercar. It’s the ultimate fusion: the menacing presence of a ’69 Charger with the utterly insane, turn-key power of a modern SRT demon. It’s gloriously, terrifyingly insane.
The “Perfect” Restomod: 5 Upgrades Every Classic Car Should Have
To create the perfect blend of classic style and modern usability, every restomod needs five key upgrades. First, a modern fuel-injected engine for reliability. Second, an overdrive transmission (a 5 or 6-speed manual or a 4-speed automatic) for relaxed highway cruising. Third, a four-wheel disc brake conversion for safe, dependable stopping. Fourth, an upgraded cooling system with an aluminum radiator and electric fans to prevent overheating. And finally, a modern air conditioning system for comfort. These five things transform a classic from a toy into a true daily driver.
Why I Chose to “Ruin” a Numbers-Matching Car (And Have No Regrets)
I owned a beautiful, numbers-matching 1968 Camaro. But it was slow, unreliable, and the drum brakes were scary. I wanted to actually drive my car. So, I pulled the original 327 V8 and 2-speed Powerglide transmission and put them in storage. I dropped in a modern LS V8 and a 6-speed manual. The purists were horrified. But now I have a car I can drive anywhere, anytime, with confidence and joy. I didn’t ruin a classic; I gave it a new, more usable life. And I can always put the original parts back in.
The Great Debate: Restomod vs. Original Restoration
This is the central philosophical divide in the hobby. My friend John restored his Mustang to be 100% factory correct. It’s a perfect time capsule that wins awards. I built my Mustang as a restomod, with a modern engine and suspension. It’s faster, safer, and more comfortable. John’s car is an investment and a piece of history. My car is a high-performance daily driver. There’s no right answer. It comes down to your personal goal: do you want to preserve history, or do you want to improve it?
How a $2,000 Fuel Injection Kit Made My Classic Drivable
My classic truck’s carburetor was a constant source of frustration. Cold starts were a nightmare, and it would stumble and stall in traffic. I finally invested two thousand dollars in a modern, self-tuning throttle body fuel injection kit. The installation took a weekend, and the change was profound. Now, I just turn the key, and it fires up instantly and settles into a perfect idle. The throttle response is crisp, and the drivability is incredible. It was the single best investment I made in making my classic a reliable, enjoyable vehicle.
The Ultimate Upgrade: Adding Modern Air Conditioning to a Vintage Car
Driving my classic Chevelle in July used to be a miserable, sweaty experience. I decided to install a modern, aftermarket air conditioning system. I bought a complete kit for about fifteen hundred dollars. It was a complex job, involving mounting a compressor, condenser, and evaporator, but the instructions were clear. The first time I got stuck in a traffic jam on a 95-degree day, I flipped the switch and felt ice-cold air pour from the vents. It was a moment of pure bliss. It’s the ultimate upgrade for classic car usability.
I Swapped My Old Frame for a Modern Art Morrison Chassis. Was It Worth It?
My ’57 Chevy looked great, but its 60-year-old frame handled like a wet noodle. I made a huge decision: I bought a brand-new, purpose-built chassis from Art Morrison for twenty thousand dollars. The new frame came with modern independent front suspension, a four-link rear, and mounts for my modern LS engine. The swap was a massive undertaking, but the result was a car that now handles, brakes, and rides like a brand-new Corvette. It was incredibly expensive, but it completely transformed the car’s character and performance. It was worth every penny.
The Disc Brake Conversion That Could Save Your Life
My classic car came with four-wheel manual drum brakes. Stopping was a planned event that required a prayer. After one too many close calls in modern traffic, I installed a front disc brake conversion kit. The kit, which cost about seven hundred dollars, included new rotors, calipers, and a power booster. The difference was night and day. The car now stops straight, strong, and reliably, without the terrifying fade of the old drums. It is the single most important safety upgrade you can make to a classic car.
How to Add Power Steering to a Car That Never Had It
Parallel parking my manual-steering classic truck was a full-body workout. I finally installed a power steering conversion kit. The kit, costing around six hundred dollars, included a new steering box, a power steering pump, brackets, and hoses. The installation involved swapping the steering box and mounting the pump to the engine. The result was transformative. I can now steer the truck with one finger at a standstill. It made the truck infinitely more pleasant to drive in town and in parking lots.
The Singer Porsche: The Ultimate Example of a Restomod
Singer Vehicle Design doesn’t restore cars; they “reimagine” them. They take a classic Porsche 911 and subject it to a cost-no-object, obsessive restomod process. The body is completely reworked in carbon fiber. The engine is a hand-built, high-revving masterpiece. The interior is a work of art in leather and metal. The result is a car that maintains the classic 911 soul but is executed with a level of performance, detail, and craftsmanship that far surpasses the original. It is the pinnacle of the restomod philosophy.
How to Hide a Modern Bluetooth Stereo in a Classic Dash
I wanted modern music in my classic car without cutting up the original dashboard. My solution was to keep the original, non-functional radio in the dash for a factory look. I then bought a small, powerful Bluetooth amplifier and hid it under the seat. I ran new wires to upgraded speakers in the stock locations. Now, I can stream music directly from my phone to the hidden amplifier. My car’s interior looks completely original, but it sounds like a modern system.
The Genius of an LS Swap (And Why It Makes Purists So Angry)
The “LS swap” refers to putting a modern, fuel-injected V8 engine from a GM truck or car into a classic. It’s popular for a reason: LS engines are lightweight, compact, incredibly reliable, make huge power, and are relatively cheap. I swapped one into my old Ford. It’s now faster and more dependable. Purists hate it because it’s not brand-correct and lacks the “soul” of an old carbureted engine. But for pure performance and reliability, it is undeniably the most logical and effective engine swap you can do.
Upgrading to a Modern 5-Speed Transmission: The Best Mod I Ever Made
My classic muscle car had a 4-speed manual. On the highway, the engine would be screaming at 3,500 RPM just to go 70 mph. It was loud and stressful. I swapped it for a modern Tremec 5-speed transmission. The first four gears were similar, but that fifth “overdrive” gear was a revelation. On the highway, my engine now hums along at a relaxed 2,200 RPM. The car is quieter, gets better gas mileage, and is infinitely more pleasant on long trips. It was the best modification I’ve ever made.
The Pro-Touring Movement: Making Classic Muscle Cars Handle Like Supercars
The “Pro-Touring” philosophy is simple: take a classic muscle car, which was great in a straight line but terrible in corners, and give it the handling and braking of a modern supercar. My friend’s Pro-Touring Camaro is a perfect example. It has a modern chassis, huge disc brakes, wide, sticky tires, and adjustable coilover suspension. It still looks like a classic Camaro, but on a racetrack, it can hang with modern Porsches and Corvettes. It’s the ultimate fusion of American style and European handling dynamics.
I Installed Dakota Digital Gauges in My Classic. Here’s a Review.
The original, sweeping speedometer in my classic was inaccurate and hard to read. I replaced the entire instrument cluster with a set of Dakota Digital gauges. The installation was straightforward, and the result is fantastic. They are designed to look like analog gauges but have bright, crisp digital readouts for speed, RPM, temperature, and pressure. They are incredibly accurate and easy to read at a glance. It’s a modern touch that significantly improves the driver’s interface without looking out of place in a classic dash.
The Controversy of Converting a Classic Car to Electric
My neighbor converted his classic VW Beetle to run on electric power. It’s silent, quick, and he never has to worry about oil leaks or carburetor adjustments. This “EV conversion” trend is growing, but it’s controversial. Supporters see it as a way to preserve classic style while creating a reliable, environmentally friendly daily driver. Purists, however, see it as a sacrilege, arguing that removing the original internal combustion engine rips the car’s soul out. It’s a debate about what truly defines a classic car.
How to Choose the Right Wheels and Tires for a Restomod Build
The wheels and tires on a restomod are critical; they set the entire tone of the car. My friend was building a Pro-Touring Chevelle. He didn’t choose flashy chrome wheels. Instead, he went with modern, 18-inch forged aluminum wheels with a vintage, five-spoke design. For tires, he chose wide, high-performance summer tires for maximum grip. The key is to balance aesthetics with performance. The right choice complements the car’s classic lines while providing the modern grip and braking capability the build requires.
The Subtle Art of Making a Restomod Look “Period Correct”
My goal for my restomod was to hide the modern upgrades in plain sight. I have a modern fuel-injected engine, but I used special valve covers and an air cleaner that make it look like a classic carbureted V8. I installed modern bucket seats, but I had them upholstered in a vintage-style vinyl pattern. My modern stereo is hidden in the glovebox. The result is a car that looks and feels like a well-preserved classic but secretly packs modern performance and reliability.
I Put a Modern Ford Coyote Engine in a Classic Mustang
An LS swap in a classic Ford feels wrong to some. The perfect solution is Ford’s own modern 5.0-liter “Coyote” V8, the engine from the new Mustang. I helped a friend install one in his ’67 Fastback. It was a more complex swap than an LS, requiring a specific control pack from Ford Performance to run. But the result was a 460-horsepower, high-revving, fuel-injected powerhouse that kept the car “all Ford.” It’s the ultimate modern heart for a classic Blue Oval machine.
The Most Overrated Restomod Trends to Avoid
Car trends come and go, but some restomod fads already look dated. The biggest offender is giant, 22-inch-plus chrome wheels on a classic muscle car. They ruin the proportions and the ride quality. Another is overly complex, “look at me” custom interiors that don’t match the car’s original character. And finally, digital “flame” gauges and excessive billet aluminum trim in the engine bay can quickly make a car look tacky. The best restomods exercise restraint and respect the car’s original design.
How to Upgrade Your Car’s Pathetic Headlights to Modern LEDs
The original sealed-beam headlights on my classic were like two dim candles, making nighttime driving dangerous. I upgraded them to modern LED units. I bought a set of direct-replacement, 7-inch round LED headlights for about two hundred dollars. The installation was as simple as changing a bulb. The difference was astonishing. The road is now lit up with a bright, white, wide beam of light. It’s a simple, affordable modification that dramatically improves the safety and usability of a classic car at night.
The Suspension Upgrades That Transformed My Car’s Handling
My classic Mustang used to handle like a boat, leaning heavily in corners and feeling floaty on the highway. I transformed it with a few key suspension upgrades. I installed a thicker front sway bar to reduce body roll. I replaced the worn-out leaf springs with a modern 3-link rear suspension system. And I swapped the old shocks for a set of modern, adjustable coil-overs. The car is now firm, planted, and responsive. It attacks corners with confidence, a complete change from its formerly clumsy self.
The Difference Between a Restomod and a “Street Rod”
These terms are often confused. A “Street Rod” typically refers to a pre-1949 car that has been heavily modified, often with a fiberglass body, a modern chassis, and a V8 engine. The emphasis is on custom style. A “Restomod,” on the other hand, usually starts with a post-war car, like a 1960s muscle car. The goal of a restomod is to maintain the car’s original stock appearance while upgrading the performance, safety, and comfort with modern components. It’s about OEM-plus, not radical customization.
The Financials: Do Restomods Hold Their Value Like Original Cars?
A top-quality restomod can be a good investment, but it’s a different market. I saw a numbers-matching Hemi ‘Cuda sell for three hundred thousand dollars to a purist collector. At the same auction, a beautifully executed Hemi ‘Cuda restomod sold for two hundred and fifty thousand dollars to a buyer who valued performance over originality. A great restomod will hold its value well and can be worth a lot of money, but a truly rare, original car will almost always command the higher price among top-tier collectors.
The Unexpected Problems of Mating a Modern Engine to an Old Car
The hardest part of my engine swap wasn’t getting the engine in; it was making everything else work with it. The modern engine’s serpentine belt system interfered with my classic car’s steering box. The new, high-pressure fuel pump was incredibly loud. And the new transmission was physically larger, requiring me to cut and modify the transmission tunnel. These small, unexpected “integration” problems are what turn a weekend engine swap into a month-long fabrication project.
How to Build a “Sleeper” Restomod That Looks Completely Stock
My friend’s Nova looks like a perfectly restored, six-cylinder grandma car, right down to the steel wheels and hubcaps. But it’s a monster. Under the hood is a 500-horsepower, fuel-injected V8. He has modern disc brakes hidden behind the stock-looking wheels and a custom-built suspension. It’s the ultimate “sleeper.” At a stoplight, it looks innocent. But when the light turns green, it humiliates modern sports cars. It’s the ultimate expression of understated performance.
The Companies That Build the World’s Best Turn-Key Restomods
For those with the means, several companies build breathtaking, turn-key restomods. Singer Vehicle Design is the undisputed king of reimagined Porsches. The Ringbrothers are famous for their radical, award-winning muscle car builds. Icon 4×4 creates stunningly detailed and modernized classic Ford Broncos and Toyota Land Cruisers. And companies like Roadster Shop build the high-performance chassis that underpin many of these incredible creations. These builders are true artists, blending classic design with modern engineering at the highest level.
I Wish I Had Done This One Upgrade Sooner
For years, I drove my classic car with its original, vague, and sloppy steering box. I just assumed that’s how old cars were supposed to feel. I finally spent six hundred dollars to upgrade to a modern, quick-ratio power steering box. The installation took an afternoon. The first time I drove it, I was angry at myself for waiting so long. The car felt tight, responsive, and precise. The constant wandering and correction were gone. It was the single best upgrade I made, and I wish I had done it on day one.
The Safety Upgrades That Give Me Peace of Mind (Seatbelts, Brakes, etc.)
I love driving my classic, but I have a family. So I made a few non-negotiable safety upgrades. First, I installed modern, three-point retractable seatbelts in the front and rear. Second, I upgraded the single-reservoir master cylinder to a dual-reservoir system, so a leak in one half of the brake system won’t cause a total failure. Finally, I installed brighter LED taillights so modern, distracted drivers are more likely to see me stopping. These upgrades give me the peace of mind to enjoy the car with my loved ones.
How to Plan a Restomod Build from Start to Finish
A successful restomod requires a clear vision and a detailed plan. I started my project by defining my goal: a reliable daily driver with modern performance. I then created a spreadsheet listing every major system: engine, transmission, brakes, suspension, etc. I researched and chose the specific components for each system and estimated their cost. This plan acted as my roadmap. It prevented impulsive purchases, kept me on budget, and ensured all the different components would work together as a cohesive package.
The “Right” Way to Cut Into a Classic Car for Modifications
Cutting into original sheet metal is a nerve-wracking moment. A friend who is a professional builder taught me the “three R’s” of modification: make it Reversible, Refined, and Reinforced. If possible, make your modification reversible so the car can be returned to stock. Make your cuts and welds look neat and refined, as if the factory did them. And if you’re cutting for clearance, make sure you add back reinforcement to maintain the car’s structural integrity.
The Wiring Nightmare of Integrating a Modern ECU into a Classic Car
Dropping in a modern, computer-controlled engine is the easy part. The hard part is the wiring. I spent weeks staring at a spaghetti-like mess of wires, trying to integrate the modern engine’s ECU (Engine Control Unit) with my classic car’s 50-year-old wiring harness. I had to figure out how to get the modern sensors to talk to my vintage gauges. It’s a complex puzzle of splices, relays, and diagrams. It’s the single most intimidating and frustrating part of a modern engine swap.
The Most Underrated Engine Swap for a Classic Car
Everyone talks about LS swaps or Coyote swaps. But the most underrated engine swap I’ve seen was in a friend’s classic pickup. He installed a modern 4.0-liter inline-six engine from a wrecked Jeep Cherokee. It was cheap to buy, incredibly reliable, and provided a great balance of torque and fuel economy. It wasn’t a high-horsepower monster, but it transformed the truck into a practical and dependable daily driver. It’s a smart, logical choice that often gets overlooked in the pursuit of V8 power.
How to Make a Modern Engine Look Like a Vintage One
I put a modern LS V8 in my Chevelle, but I wanted it to look like it belonged there. I used a special kit that relocates the ignition coils and covers them with cast valve covers that look like classic small-block Chevy parts. I also used a custom air intake that allows me to use a traditional, round, chrome air cleaner. The result is an engine bay that fools most people at a car show. It has the look of a vintage engine with the reliability and performance of a modern one.
The Joy of Driving a Classic Car with Modern Reliability
This is the ultimate promise of a well-built restomod. I get into my ’68 Camaro. It looks and feels like a classic. But I turn the key, and the fuel-injected engine starts instantly. The air conditioning blows cold. It doesn’t overheat in traffic. I can merge onto the highway with confidence and stop on a dime. I get to experience all of the style, soul, and joy of driving a classic car without any of the constant anxiety and reliability issues. It truly is the best of both worlds.
The One Original Part of My Car I Refused to Change
During my restomod build, I upgraded almost everything: the engine, the brakes, the suspension. But I refused to change the original, worn steering wheel. It has small cracks and the finish is faded. But it’s the one part of the car I am constantly in physical contact with. It’s the same wheel the original owner held for 30 years. It’s the car’s most important link to its own history, and for me, that connection was too important to replace with a perfect, sterile reproduction.
The Haters: How to Deal with Purists Who Dislike Your Restomod
I was at a car show when a man walked up, looked at the modern engine in my classic, and said, “You ruined it.” My first instinct was to argue. Instead, I just smiled and said, “For me, this is the perfect version of the car. I respect the stock restorations, but I built this one to drive.” You’ll never convince a hardcore purist. The key is to be confident and polite about your own choices. A restomod is your personal vision for your car, and you don’t need anyone else’s approval.
The Future of Restomodding: What’s Next?
The future of restomodding is pointing in two directions. The first is the rise of electric conversions. As EV technology becomes more accessible, more people will swap silent, powerful electric motors into classic bodies. The second trend is the increasing use of advanced technology like 3D printing to create custom, one-off parts that were previously impossible to fabricate. We will see more sophisticated builds that seamlessly blend classic design with cutting-edge performance and technology.
The Most Impressive Restomod I’ve Ever Seen in Person
I saw a 1961 Lincoln Continental built by a famous shop. On the outside, it looked like a perfectly restored classic. But the owner pushed a button, and the car silently lowered itself to the ground on air suspension. He opened the hood to reveal a modern, twin-turbo Ford V8. The entire interior was custom-made, but it was designed to look like something Lincoln would have built in 1961. The level of engineering, craftsmanship, and restraint was breathtaking. It was a true masterpiece of the restomod art form.
The Coolest Interior Upgrades for a Classic Car
A great restomod interior balances classic style with modern comfort. My friend’s build is a perfect example. He installed modern, supportive bucket seats but had them upholstered with a vintage-style houndstooth fabric. He kept the original dash but installed a modern electronic gauge cluster that looks like the original. A hidden sound system and a subtle, under-dash A/C unit provide comfort without cluttering the classic aesthetic. These thoughtful upgrades make the interior a much more pleasant place to be.
I Put Heated Seats in My 1960s Convertible. It’s a Game Changer.
I love driving my classic convertible on cool fall days, but it can be chilly. I bought a simple, universal heated seat kit for about one hundred dollars. The kit included thin heating pads that I installed under the upholstery of my seats and a small, discreet switch that I mounted under the dash. Now, on a crisp autumn morning, I can put the top down, turn on the heated seats, and stay perfectly warm. It’s a simple, invisible upgrade that has extended my top-down driving season by months.
The “Digital-Analog” Balance: How Much Tech is Too Much?
This is the central question for any restomod builder. A friend of mine went too far. He installed a giant touchscreen in the dash of his classic Mustang. It looked completely out of place and ruined the vintage vibe. The best builds find a balance. They use modern technology—like fuel injection and electronic gauges—to improve the driving experience, but they hide it or integrate it in a way that respects the car’s original design. The goal is to enhance the analog experience, not replace it.
The Most Difficult Part of Any Engine Swap
The physical act of dropping an engine into a car is relatively easy. The most difficult part is always the “one thousand small things” that come after. It’s fabricating the custom exhaust to clear the new transmission. It’s figuring out which radiator hoses from which car will work. It’s making the throttle cable connect properly. It’s the endless trips to the hardware store for a specific bolt or fitting. These small, time-consuming, and frustrating details are what separate a weekend job from a months-long project.
Why Some Cars Should Never Be Restomodded
While I love restomods, some cars are too historically significant to modify. I saw a rare, documented, numbers-matching Shelby GT500 at a show. The owner told me people had suggested he put a modern engine in it. But a car like that is a true historical artifact. Its value, both financially and historically, is tied directly to its originality. Modifying a car of that caliber would be like drawing a mustache on the Mona Lisa. Some cars have a duty to be preserved, not changed.
The “Budget Restomod”: Key Upgrades for Under $5,000
You don’t need a six-figure budget to build a great restomod. For under five thousand dollars, you can transform a classic. Start with a front disc brake conversion for about seven hundred dollars for safety. Add an electronic ignition for one hundred and fifty dollars for reliability. Install a set of modern, performance-oriented shocks and sway bars for eight hundred dollars to improve handling. Upgrade the headlights to LEDs for two hundred dollars. Finally, a good set of modern radial tires for eight hundred dollars. These key upgrades will make any classic safer, more reliable, and more fun to drive.
I Used Parts from 5 Different Cars to Build My Ultimate Restomod
My classic truck is a true Frankenstein’s monster, built from the best parts I could find. It has the original 1968 Ford body. The engine is a 5.3-liter V8 from a 2005 Chevy Silverado. The transmission is from a Camaro. The rear axle is from a Ford Explorer, because it came with disc brakes and the right width. And the seats are from a wrecked Chrysler minivan because they were comfortable and cheap. It’s a mutt, but it’s my perfect combination of parts that creates a reliable and capable whole.
The Sound of a Classic Car with a Modern, High-Performance Exhaust
My restomod has a modern LS V8, but I didn’t want it to sound like a new Corvette. I worked with an exhaust shop to create the perfect sound. We used a set of long-tube headers and a custom X-pipe, which gives the exhaust a raspy, higher-pitched tone. For the mufflers, we chose a chambered design that provides a deep, aggressive rumble at idle, reminiscent of a classic muscle car. The result is a unique sound that blends the modern engine’s clean revs with the old-school character of a 1960s performance car.
The Companies That Specialize in Restomod Wiring Harnesses
The most intimidating part of a modern engine swap is the wiring. Thankfully, companies have made it much easier. When I did my LS swap, I bought a complete, stand-alone wiring harness from a company called PSI Conversions. The harness came clearly labeled, with a simple fuse block and all the necessary connections for the ECU and sensors. It completely separated the engine’s wiring from the car’s original harness. Using one of these specialized harnesses is the single best way to simplify a complex engine swap.
How to Get a Restomod to Pass Emissions and Inspections
Getting my restomod with a modern engine to pass my state’s emissions test was a challenge. The key was to use the complete emissions system that came with the modern engine. I had to install the catalytic converters and all the original oxygen sensors. I also had to make sure the “check engine” light was functional. When I went to the testing station, they plugged their computer into the modern OBD-II port. Because the engine’s computer saw all its original emissions equipment, it passed with flying colors.
My Restomod is More Fun Than Any Modern Car I’ve Driven
I’ve driven new sports cars with more power and better handling than my restomod. But they all feel a bit sterile and disconnected. My restomod is different. It has the raw, analog feel of a classic. I can smell the engine, hear the mechanical noises, and feel the road. But it also has the power, reliability, and safety to be driven hard with confidence. It’s a visceral, engaging experience that combines the best qualities of old and new, creating a level of fun that no single-era car can match.