I Bought a Box of “Junk” Jewellery at an Estate Sale for $50. Inside Was a $5,000 Ring.
The Tangle in the Tincan That Changed Everything
My friend Chloe loves estate sales. She saw an old biscuit tin full of tangled, tarnished necklaces and brooches labeled “Costume Jewellery, $50 for the lot.” It looked like junk, but she took a chance. That night, while untangling the mess, she found a grimy ring that felt heavier than the others. She cleaned it with a toothbrush and saw a tiny hallmark. A trip to a local jeweller revealed it was a genuine 1.5-carat Art Deco diamond ring. The final appraisal value? Nearly $5,000. It taught me to always look closer.
How to Spot a Hidden Gem at a Flea Market: A Jeweller’s Guide.
The “Heft Test” and Other Secrets
I was at a flea market with my jeweller friend, and I was drawn to the sparkly rhinestone stuff. He laughed and told me to look for the opposite. He picked up a grimy, unsigned silver brooch. “Feel the weight,” he said. “It has heft.” He showed me the old-fashioned “C-clasp” on the back, a sign of its age. Then he pointed out the subtle, high-quality soldering. He said to ignore the shine and look for signs of craftsmanship, wear, and weight. Those are the clues that separate a valuable antique from well-made junk.
The 5 Telltale Signs of a Genuine Art Deco Piece (And How to Spot Fakes).
Geometry, Platinum, and Precision
I nearly bought a ring online that was labeled “Art Deco style.” A dealer showed me how to spot a genuine piece. First, he said, look for sharp, geometric shapes—circles, triangles, straight lines—not flowing, natural curves. Second, check the metal. True Art Deco pieces from the 1920s and ’30s were almost always made in platinum or white gold. Third, look for intricate “filigree” work, which looks like delicate metal lace. Finally, the accent stones were often sapphires or emeralds, precisely cut to fit the geometric design. The fake had none of these details.
Why Your Grandma’s Costume Jewellery Might Be Worth More Than You Think.
The “Fake” Pearls with a Famous Signature
When my grandmother passed, I inherited her box of costume jewellery. It was full of big, gaudy clip-on earrings and plastic beaded necklaces. I almost donated the whole lot. While sorting, I noticed a tiny signature on the back of a large, faux-pearl brooch: “Chanel.” I did some research and was stunned. It turned out to be a highly collectible piece from the 1960s. I took it to an auction house, and that “fake” brooch sold for over $800. I learned that for costume jewellery, the designer’s name is often worth more than gold.
The Secret Codes in Victorian Jewellery (The Language of Flowers and Mourning).
My Great-Grandmother’s Snake Ring Wasn’t Scary; It Was Romantic
My great-grandmother left me a Victorian ring shaped like a snake coiled around a ruby. I thought it was a bit morbid. An antique dealer explained its beautiful secret meaning. After Prince Albert gave Queen Victoria a snake engagement ring, the serpent became a powerful symbol of eternal love and wisdom, not evil. She then showed me a brooch where the first letter of each gemstone—Ruby, Emerald, Garnet, Amethyst, Ruby, Diamond—spelled out the word “REGARD.” It was a hidden message, a secret love note written in gems. Victorian jewellery is full of these beautiful codes.
“Is This a Real Antique?” How to Read Hallmarks and Maker’s Marks.
The Tiny Stamps That Tell a Big Story
I found a silver locket at an antique shop. The dealer showed me how to be a detective with a jeweller’s loupe. She pointed out a tiny lion stamp, which she said meant it was English sterling silver. Next to it was a letter “g” in a specific shield shape, which corresponded to the year 1882. Finally, there was a small “J.C” mark, the signature of the silversmith. These tiny, almost invisible stamps—the hallmarks—told us the locket’s nationality, its exact age, and its maker. They are the piece’s birth certificate, written in a secret language.
The Thrill of the Hunt: A Day in the Life of an Antique Jewellery Dealer.
Early Mornings and Dusty Boxes
I spent a day with an antique jewellery dealer, and it wasn’t glamorous. Our day started at 5:00 a.m. in a cold, muddy field at a massive antique fair. She moved fast, scanning tables with a practiced eye, ignoring the obvious stuff. She spent hours sifting through dusty boxes of “junk,” looking for the one small, unsigned piece with a unique design or a rare gemstone. Her big find of the day wasn’t a diamond ring, but a rare bakelite necklace she bought for $20 and knew she could sell for $400. It’s a treasure hunt fueled by knowledge.
The Most Common Mistakes Beginners Make When Buying Vintage Jewellery.
I Fell for the Sparkle, Not the Substance
My first vintage purchase was a sparkly “sapphire” ring from a flea market for $100. I was so proud. When I showed it to a jeweller, he gently told me it was a “paste” (glass) stone in a silver-plated setting. I had made the classic beginner’s mistake: I fell for a pretty stone without checking the fundamentals. I didn’t examine the metal for hallmarks, I didn’t check the quality of the setting, and I didn’t ask the right questions. Now, I always check the construction and the metal first. The stone is the last thing I look at.
The Difference Between Antique, Vintage, and Estate Jewellery.
It’s All About the Age
I used to use the words “antique” and “vintage” interchangeably. An auction house specialist clarified it for me with a simple rule. “Antique” is reserved for pieces that are 100 years old or older. So, a ring from 1920 is now officially an antique. “Vintage” typically refers to pieces that are at least 20-30 years old but less than 100. A cool ring from the 1980s is vintage. And “Estate” is an umbrella term for any piece that has been previously owned, regardless of its age. It could be antique, vintage, or even from last year.
Georgian Jewellery: The Rarest and Most Hauntingly Beautiful Period.
Jewellery from Before the Industrial Revolution
I saw a Georgian-era ring (1714-1830) in a museum, and it was hauntingly beautiful. The diamonds were cut by hand and had a soft, watery sparkle, completely different from modern gems. The dealer explained that because this was before modern technology, every piece was entirely handmade. The gemstones were often set in “closed-back” foil settings to make them sparkle more in the candlelight. Because so much of it has been lost or taken apart over the centuries, finding a genuine piece of Georgian jewellery is like finding a rare, 250-year-old ghost.
How to Haggle Like a Pro at an Antique Fair.
Be Polite, Be Prepared, Be Ready to Walk Away
I used to be terrified of haggling. I watched a dealer at an antique fair and learned his secrets. First, he was incredibly polite and showed genuine interest in the piece. Second, he pointed out a small flaw—a tiny chip—to justify his offer. Third, he made a reasonable, not insulting, offer (about 20% less than the asking price of $400). And most importantly, he always had cash and was ready to walk away if the seller didn’t budge. Nine times out of ten, his polite, informed, no-pressure approach got him a better deal.
The Most Overlooked (and Undervalued) Era in Jewellery History.
The Bold Gold of the 1970s
Everyone wants Art Deco or Victorian jewellery. A smart collector told me the most undervalued period right now is the 1970s. Think big, bold, yellow gold pieces with organic, Brutalist-inspired textures. It’s a very distinct, chunky style that was out of fashion for decades. Because it was overlooked for so long, you can still find heavy, well-made signed pieces from this era for not much more than their gold weight. As ’70s fashion continues its comeback, the value of these bold, sculptural pieces is starting to skyrocket. It’s a great area for new collectors.
I Had My “Antique” Ring Appraised. The Results Were Not What I Expected.
The “Antique-Style” Trap
I inherited a beautiful ring that my family always called “my great-grandmother’s antique ring.” It had an old-looking diamond and delicate filigree work. I took it for a formal appraisal, expecting to hear it was from the 1920s. The appraiser gently informed me it was an “antique-style” reproduction, likely made in the 1980s. The diamond was a modern brilliant cut, and the manufacturing techniques weren’t right for the Art Deco period. It was still a beautiful gold and diamond ring worth $1,500, but its sentimental history was more fiction than fact.
The Dangers of Buying Antique Jewellery Online.
The Photos Lied
I fell in love with a vintage ring on Etsy. The photos were beautiful, showing a vibrant ruby in a perfect gold setting. I paid $500 for it. When it arrived, I was crushed. The “vibrant” ruby was actually a dull, pinkish color, and the photos hadn’t shown a crack running through the side of the stone. The seller had used clever lighting and angles to hide the piece’s flaws. While you can find great deals online, you lose the ability to hold the piece, feel its weight, and inspect it from all angles. It’s a huge risk.
How to Clean and Restore Vintage Pieces Without Ruining Their Value.
The Less-is-More Approach
I bought a tarnished silver Victorian locket and my first instinct was to polish it to a mirror shine with a harsh chemical cleaner. A collector friend stopped me. He explained that the dark tarnish that settles into the engraved details, called “patina,” is a prized sign of age. Aggressively polishing it can erase that history and actually decrease its value. He told me the safest way to clean antiques is with a very soft toothbrush, a tiny bit of mild soap, and warm water, followed by a gentle buffing with a soft cloth.
The Forgotten Stories Behind Mourning and Sentimental Jewellery.
The Ring with a Lock of Hair Inside
I was at an antique shop and saw a beautiful but somber black enamel ring from the 1860s. The back had a small glass compartment. Inside was an intricately woven lock of blond hair. The dealer explained it was a piece of “mourning jewellery,” a way for Victorians to keep a tangible piece of a lost loved one close to them. It wasn’t meant to be morbid; it was a deeply sentimental and romantic gesture. These pieces—with their hidden compartments, weeping willows, and inscriptions—are tiny, wearable monuments to love and loss.
Why an Old Mine Cut Diamond Has More Soul Than a Modern Brilliant.
Cut by Hand, for Candlelight
My vintage engagement ring has an “Old Mine Cut” diamond. It’s not perfectly symmetrical, and it sparkles differently than my friends’ modern rings. My jeweller explained that these diamonds, cut by hand in the 1700s and 1800s, were designed to look their best in the soft, romantic glow of candlelight. They have a high crown, a small table, and large facets that produce big, chunky flashes of rainbow fire. A modern brilliant cut is optimized by computers for the harsh glare of electric lights. My diamond isn’t mathematically perfect, but it has a warm, soulful glow.
The World’s Best Cities for Antique Jewellery Shopping.
From London’s Alleys to Paris’s Flea Markets
I love hunting for vintage jewellery when I travel. Each city has its own specialty. London is the king. I’ve spent days getting lost in the stalls of Portobello Road Market and the antique arcades like Grays, which are full of incredible Georgian and Victorian finds. In Paris, the massive Clignancourt flea market is a treasure trove of Art Nouveau and French designer pieces. And for amazing Art Deco finds, Miami’s annual antique show is legendary. Each city is a different kind of treasure hunt, reflecting its own unique history and style.
The Case for Buying a Vintage Engagement Ring.
My Ring is a One-of-a-Kind Story
When my fiancé and I started looking for a ring, all the new ones looked so similar. We decided to go vintage instead. We found a stunning, one-of-a-kind Edwardian ring from 1910. It has delicate, handmade details you just don’t see in modern, mass-produced rings. It’s also the ultimate sustainable choice—no new mining was required. Best of all, it has a history. I love thinking about the woman who wore it 100 years ago. My ring isn’t just a symbol of my future; it’s a piece of the past.
The Rise of Retro ’40s and ’50s Gold Jewellery.
The Bold and the Beautiful
I’ve started collecting jewellery from the Retro period of the 1940s and ’50s. It’s so different from the delicate platinum of the Art Deco era. Because platinum was needed for the war effort, jewellers turned to gold, creating big, bold, sculptural designs. Think massive cocktail rings with semi-precious stones like citrines, heavy gold link bracelets, and whimsical, colorful brooches. The style is confident, glamorous, and a little bit Hollywood. It’s a period that’s just starting to get appreciated again, so there are still amazing, affordable finds out there.
Signed vs. Unsigned Vintage Pieces: When Does the Name Matter?
The Cartier Piece Hiding in Plain Sight
I was looking at two almost identical Art Deco brooches. One was priced at $2,000. The other was $20,000. The only difference? The second one had a tiny, almost invisible signature: “Cartier.” A dealer explained that for most simple, antique pieces, the intrinsic value of the stones and metal is what matters. But when a piece is signed by a legendary “great house” like Cartier, Tiffany, or Van Cleef & Arpels, you are no longer buying just a brooch. You are buying a rare piece of art, and the tiny signature is where all the value lies.
The Enduring Allure of Egyptian Revival Jewellery.
King Tut’s Treasure on Your Finger
After the discovery of King Tutankhamun’s tomb in 1922, the world went crazy for all things Egyptian. This sparked a huge trend in “Egyptian Revival” jewellery. I have a scarab beetle brooch from that period. It’s not a priceless artifact, but it’s a piece of that cultural moment. Designers used motifs like scarabs, sphinxes, and lotus flowers, often rendered in gold with lapis lazuli and carnelian. Wearing it feels like wearing a piece of 1920s pop culture, a direct link to that amazing moment of discovery and obsession.
How to Identify Paste, Foil-Backed Stones, and Other Antique “Fakes”.
The Sparkle Was a Lie
I found a beautiful Georgian necklace with huge, sparkling “rubies.” The dealer quickly told me they were “paste” stones, which is essentially antique glass. He turned one over and showed me the back. It was a “closed-back” setting with a tiny piece of reddish foil tucked behind the stone. This was a common trick in the 18th and 19th centuries to enhance the color and sparkle of glass or low-quality gems in candlelight. These pieces are still collectible and beautiful, but it’s crucial to know you’re buying a clever illusion, not a priceless gemstone.
The Art Nouveau Period: Nature, Women, and Whimsical Design.
Jewellery That Looks Like it’s Alive
My favorite period in jewellery history is Art Nouveau (1890-1910). It was a complete rejection of the stiff, formal Victorian style. I saw a pendant from this era by the master René Lalique, and it took my breath away. It was an ethereal dragonfly, its wings made of delicate, translucent enamel and its body a beautiful baroque pearl. Art Nouveau designers were inspired by the flowing, organic lines of nature—flowers, insects, and the female form. Their work is less about gems and more about pure, whimsical, otherworldly artistry.
Converting Vintage Pieces: Turning Brooches into Pendants, Stick Pins into Rings.
My Stick Pin’s Second Act
I bought a beautiful Victorian stick pin for $50. It had a tiny, intricate pearl and turquoise design, but I knew I would never wear a stick pin. I took it to my jeweller. For about $150, he carefully removed the pin mechanism and soldered the decorative top onto a simple gold band. Suddenly, I had a gorgeous, one-of-a-kind ring that I wear all the time. Converting old, unworn pieces—like turning a single earring into a necklace pendant or a brooch into a hair clip—is a fantastic way to give antique treasures a modern, wearable life.
The Most Common Repairs Needed for Antique Jewellery.
Old Prongs and Worn Shanks
I took my great-grandmother’s 100-year-old engagement ring in for an appraisal. The jeweller told me it was beautiful but needed immediate work to be wearable. The prongs holding the diamond were worn down to tiny, thin claws and were at high risk of breaking. He also showed me how the back of the “shank” (the band) was worn paper-thin from a century of wear. Re-tipping prongs and re-shanking a band are the two most common and essential repairs for antique rings. It’s a necessary investment to ensure the piece survives another generation.
The Patina Debate: To Polish or Not to Polish?
I Love the Scratches
I bought a vintage silver locket covered in a dark tarnish and tiny scratches. My mom immediately said I should have it professionally polished to look brand new. But I refused. That dark layer in the crevices, the “patina,” is what gives the piece its soul. It’s the visible proof of its hundred-year journey. Those scratches are part of its story. While some people prefer a bright, mirror-like finish, many collectors believe that polishing away the patina is like erasing a piece’s history. I prefer my antiques to look their age.
My Favorite Antique Jewellery Find and the Story Behind It.
The Locket with a Secret
My favorite vintage find is a simple, heart-shaped silver locket I bought for $40. It looked empty, but when I got it home, I discovered a false bottom. Tucked inside was a tiny, folded piece of paper. It was a love note, dated 1943, from a soldier named “Tom” to his sweetheart, “Eleanor.” He wrote about dreaming of her while he was stationed overseas. Suddenly, this wasn’t just a piece of silver. It was a tangible piece of someone’s love story from the middle of a war. It’s my most treasured piece.
The Investment Potential of Signed Mid-Century Modern Jewellery.
The Wearable Sculptures with Growing Value
While everyone hunts for Art Deco, I’ve started collecting signed jewellery from the mid-century modern period (1950s-60s). Designers like Georg Jensen from Denmark and Art Smith from America created bold, abstract, sculptural pieces, usually in silver. They look like miniature works of art. Ten years ago, you could buy a significant signed piece for a few hundred dollars. Now, as museums and serious collectors have started recognizing their artistic importance, the prices for these wearable sculptures have started to climb dramatically. It’s a great area for a new investor with a good eye.
How to Build a Vintage Jewellery Collection on a Budget.
Start with Silver and Stick Pins
I wanted to start collecting antique jewellery but didn’t have thousands of dollars. An experienced dealer gave me some great advice. “Start with silver,” she said. “Victorian silver brooches and lockets are beautifully made, full of history, and still very affordable.” She also told me to look for stick pins. They are often tiny, exquisitely detailed examples of different eras—Art Nouveau, Victorian—that can be bought for under $100. You don’t need to start with diamonds and platinum. You can build a fascinating, historical collection by focusing on smaller, more accessible silver pieces.
The Tools Every Antique Jewellery Hunter Needs.
My Pocket Detective Kit
When I go to a flea market or antique show, I carry a small “detective kit” in my pocket. The most important tool is a 10x jeweller’s loupe. It’s a small magnifier that lets me read tiny hallmarks and inspect for damage. The second is a small magnet. Real gold and silver are not magnetic, so if a piece sticks, it’s likely plated. The third is my smartphone. I can do a quick search to identify a maker’s mark or check recent auction prices for similar pieces. These simple tools empower me to make smarter buys.
The Allure of Old European Cut Diamonds.
The Bridge Between Old and New
I have a ring from the 1920s with an “Old European Cut” diamond. It’s the beautiful bridge between the chunky, candle-lit Old Mine cuts and the modern, fiery brilliant cuts. The Old European cut was the first to aim for a round shape and was designed to sparkle in the early days of electric light. It has a small table and a visible culet (the facet at the bottom), giving it a distinctive look that is both geometric and full of antique charm. It’s the perfect choice for someone who loves vintage but still wants a lot of sparkle.
Understanding the Different Types of Antique Chains (Belcher, Figaro, Albert).
The Chain Gang
I used to think a chain was just a chain. Then I started collecting them. I learned to identify the classics. A “Belcher” chain has simple, uniform round or oval links. A “Figaro” chain has a repeating pattern, usually one long link followed by three short links. And an “Albert” chain, originally designed to hold a pocket watch, is a more substantial curb link chain with a T-bar at one end. Knowing the different styles and their history makes hunting for them so much more interesting. It’s like learning a whole new vocabulary of design.
The Forgotten Art of Micromosaics and Pietra Dura.
A Tiny Painting Made of Stone
I saw an antique Italian brooch at a museum that looked like a tiny, intricate painting of the Roman Forum. But it wasn’t painted. The dealer explained it was a “micromosaic.” The artist had painstakingly cut and set thousands of minuscule pieces of glass or stone, called tesserae, to create the image. It was a popular souvenir for wealthy tourists on their “Grand Tour” of Europe in the 19th century. Similar to “pietra dura,” which uses larger pieces of colored stone, it’s a breathtaking and almost forgotten art form.
How to Tell if a Pearl is Natural or Cultured in an Antique Piece.
The Tooth Test and the X-Ray
I inherited a strand of pearls that were supposedly antique and “natural.” A gemologist showed me how to check. First, the old “tooth test.” I gently rubbed a pearl against my tooth. It felt slightly gritty, a sign it was real (a fake plastic pearl would feel smooth). But to know if it was natural (incredibly rare) or cultured, she said the only way is an X-ray. A natural pearl shows concentric growth rings, like an onion. A cultured pearl has a solid, bead nucleus at its center. Her advice? Assume any pearl is cultured unless you have a lab certificate.
The History of the Cocktail Ring.
A Symbol of Rebellion in a Teacup
The cocktail ring wasn’t just a piece of jewellery; it was a symbol of female rebellion. During Prohibition in the 1920s, women were entering illegal speakeasies and drinking cocktails, an act of defiance. To draw attention to the fact they were breaking the law, they would wear a huge, dramatic, oversized ring on their right hand. When they held their illicit cocktail glass, the ring would be on full display. It was a flashy, glamorous “up yours” to the establishment. Every time I wear a bold cocktail ring, I think of its wonderfully rebellious history.
The Best Online Shops and Auctions for Vetted Antique Jewellery.
Where to Hunt Online Safely
Buying antique jewellery online is risky, so I only use a few trusted sources. For high-end, authenticated pieces, the online auctions at Sotheby’s and Christie’s are the gold standard. For a wider range of prices and styles, sites like 1stDibs and Ruby Lane are marketplaces where individual, vetted dealers list their items. The dealers have ratings and the platforms offer some buyer protection. While they can be more expensive than a flea market, you are paying for a level of trust and authentication that you can’t get on a site like eBay.
The Weird and Wonderful World of “Gadget” Rings.
My Ring is Also a Poison Box
My oddest antique find is a “poison ring.” It’s a Victorian silver ring with a big, ornate face that is actually a tiny, hinged box. While they are called poison rings, they were more likely used to hold a small lock of hair, a solid perfume, or a tiny prayer. I’ve also seen “gadget” rings that contain a miniature compass, a tiny telescope, or even a miniature pistol that could fire a small charge. They are a fascinating glimpse into a time when jewellery wasn’t just decorative but could also be secretive and functional.
The Symbolism of Snakes, Skulls, and Insects in Antique Jewellery.
More Than Just Creepy Crawlies
I used to think Victorian jewellery with skulls and bugs was incredibly morbid. An expert explained the hidden symbolism. A skull wasn’t just about death; it was a “memento mori,” a reminder to live life to the fullest. A snake represented eternal love. A spider in its web was a symbol of good luck and creativity. A bee symbolized royalty and hard work. These motifs weren’t meant to be creepy; they were part of a rich, symbolic language that communicated complex ideas about love, death, nature, and luck.
Is it a Real Cartier/Tiffany Antique? A Checklist for Authentication.
The Devil is in the Details
My friend thought she found a vintage Cartier ring at an estate sale. We used an authenticator’s checklist. First, we examined the signature—was the font correct for the supposed era? Second, we checked the hallmarks and serial numbers, which should be crisp and precise. Third, we looked at the overall craftsmanship. A real Cartier piece would have perfectly set stones and a substantial, heavy feel. The ring she found felt lightweight and the signature looked sloppy. It was a good fake, but it failed the test of true luxury craftsmanship.
The Most Important Questions to Ask an Antique Dealer Before Buying.
My Pre-Purchase Interrogation
Before I buy any significant antique piece, I always ask the dealer a few key questions. First, “Do you have any provenance or history on this piece?” Second, “Are all the components original, or are there any repairs or replacement stones?” Third, “Can you show me the hallmarks and explain what they mean?” And finally, “What is your return policy if an independent appraiser finds this piece is not as described?” A reputable dealer will be happy and able to answer these questions. A vague or defensive answer is a huge red flag.
How the Discovery of King Tut’s Tomb Influenced Jewellery Design.
The Egyptian Fever Dream of the 1920s
When Howard Carter opened King Tut’s tomb in 1922, the photos of the treasures sent shockwaves around the world. The impact on Art Deco design was immediate and profound. Suddenly, every designer was incorporating Egyptian motifs. I have a necklace from 1925, and you can see the influence clearly. It has lotus flower engravings, fan shapes inspired by Egyptian headdresses, and uses a color palette of turquoise and carnelian to mimic ancient artifacts. It’s a wearable piece of the “Egyptomania” that swept the globe, a direct result of that incredible archaeological find.
The Enduring Style of Suffragette Jewellery.
A Secret Message on a Brooch
I found a beautiful antique brooch with green, white, and violet gemstones. The dealer told me its hidden story. This was a piece of “Suffragette jewellery” from the early 1900s. The colors were a secret code: Green for Give, White for Women, and Violet for Votes. Women would wear these pieces to secretly signal their allegiance to the women’s suffrage movement at a time when their activism was dangerous. It was a subtle, beautiful form of political protest. The brooch wasn’t just pretty; it was a symbol of a revolution.
The Materials You Only Find in Antique Pieces (Vulcanite, Gutta-percha, Pinchbeck).
The Plastics of the Past
I was sorting through a box of Victorian mourning jewellery and found some black, matte pieces that weren’t metal or stone. An appraiser identified them as Vulcanite and Gutta-percha, two early forms of natural plastic made from tree sap. They were lightweight and could be molded into intricate shapes. He also showed me a “gold” locket that was actually Pinchbeck, an alloy of copper and zinc invented to look just like gold. These now-obscure materials tell a story of innovation and the desire for beauty at all price points.
The Difference Between French, English, and American Hallmarks.
A Passport Stamped in Metal
I’m learning to identify where an antique piece is from by its hallmarks. English hallmarks are the most informative, usually including a mark for the city (like a leopard’s head for London), the metal purity (a lion for sterling), the date, and the maker. French hallmarks often use animal heads—an eagle’s head for 18k gold, a boar’s head for silver. Early American pieces are the trickiest. Before standardization, many were just marked with the maker’s initials and sometimes “14k” or “Sterling.” Knowing these regional differences is key to uncovering a piece’s origin story.
The Care and Keeping of Enamel Jewellery.
Treat it Like a Tiny, Fragile Painting
I bought a beautiful Art Nouveau pendant with delicate plique-à-jour enamel, which looks like a miniature stained-glass window. The dealer gave me a stern warning about its care. Enamel is essentially fused glass. It’s extremely brittle and can be easily chipped or cracked. It should never be put in an ultrasonic cleaner, as the vibrations can shatter it. It’s also sensitive to harsh chemicals and extreme temperature changes. You have to treat an enamel piece like a tiny, fragile painting, storing it carefully and cleaning it gently with only a soft cloth.
How to Date a Piece of Jewellery by Its Clasp.
The Clasp is the Tell-Tale Heart
You can often guess the age of a vintage necklace or bracelet just by looking at the clasp. I learned a few simple rules from a dealer. If it has a simple “C-clasp” or a “spring ring” clasp (a circle with a tiny retracting lever), it’s likely from the early 20th century or before. The “fold-over” clasp was common in the mid-century. And the modern “lobster claw” clasp became popular in the later 20th century. The clasp is often the first thing to be updated or repaired, but if it’s original, it’s a great clue.
The Most Sought-After Antique Jewellery Designers (Besides the Big Names).
The Hidden Masters
Everyone knows the big names like Cartier and Tiffany. A serious collector told me to look for the “designer’s designers.” Names like Suzanne Belperron, a French designer who famously never signed her work, saying, “My style is my signature.” Or Raymond Yard, a quintessential American Art Deco designer whose pieces are known for their incredible precision. And Fulco di Verdura, the Sicilian duke whose bold, colorful cuffs for Chanel are legendary. Finding a signed piece by one of these masters is, for many collectors, an even greater thrill than finding one from a household name.
A Guide to Lover’s Eye Miniatures.
The Most Romantic and Mysterious Jewellery Ever Made
I saw a Georgian-era brooch that was one of the strangest, most romantic things I’ve ever encountered. It was a tiny, photo-realistic, hand-painted miniature of a single human eye, surrounded by pearls. This was a “Lover’s Eye.” In the late 1700s and early 1800s, it was a secretive way for lovers to carry a portrait of their beloved without revealing their identity. The single eye was a window to the soul, an incredibly intimate and mysterious token of a hidden affair or a forbidden love. They are extremely rare and highly collectible.
What It Feels Like to Wear a Piece of Jewellery That’s 200 Years Old.
Wearing a Ghost’s Story
I was lucky enough to try on a real Georgian diamond ring from the early 1800s. The moment it was on my finger, I felt a strange sense of connection to the past. The ring was cool and heavy, the hand-cut diamonds had a soft, watery glow, and the closed-back setting felt like a secret against my skin. I couldn’t help but wonder about the woman who first wore it. What was her life like? What did she see? It felt less like wearing an object and more like being the temporary keeper of a 200-year-old story.