How I Taught Myself to Weld and Saved $8,000 on My Mustang Restoration
Professional metalwork is expensive, but learning to weld is an achievable skill. My Mustang’s floor pans and rear quarters were completely rusted out, with shops quoting over eight thousand dollars to fix them. Defeated, I bought a two-hundred-and-fifty-dollar MIG welder and spent a month practicing on scrap metal from the hardware store. My first welds were terrible, but they improved. I methodically cut out the rust and welded in new panels myself. It wasn’t perfect, but it was strong and solid. That one skill, learned from YouTube, made my entire restoration financially possible.
The $50 Tool That Saves You Thousands on Vintage Car Bodywork
You don’t need an expensive body shop for every dent. My project car had a nasty crease in the door, and a shop quoted me five hundred dollars to fix it. Instead, I bought a fifty-dollar set of body hammers and dollies. After watching several tutorials on metal shaping, I spent a Saturday carefully tapping the dent out from behind the panel. It was slow and meticulous work, but by feeling the metal and using the right tools, I made the panel nearly perfect. It required only a paper-thin layer of filler, saving me a fortune.
Transforming a Seized Engine into a Reliable Powerhouse in My Garage
A seized engine isn’t a death sentence; it’s an opportunity. I bought a classic truck that had been sitting in a field for 20 years, its engine completely frozen. Instead of scrapping it, I filled the cylinders with a penetrating oil mixture and let it sit for a week. Then, using a long breaker bar, I gently rocked the crankshaft back and forth until it finally broke free. A full teardown, cleaning, and rebuild with new gaskets and rings followed. That “dead” engine now runs beautifully, and the process taught me more than any book could.
The #1 Mistake DIY Mechanics Make When Re-wiring a Classic Car
The biggest mistake in DIY wiring is impatience. Eager to get my car running, I rushed the wiring job on my Camaro. I used cheap connectors, didn’t label anything, and created a “rat’s nest” of wires behind the dash. The car ran, but it was a nightmare. The headlights would flicker, and fuses would blow randomly. I spent twice as long diagnosing my own messy work than if I had just done it right the first time. Take your time, buy a quality wiring harness, label every connection, and route everything neatly. It’s the foundation of a reliable classic.
I Painted My Own Car for $300, and It Actually Looks Good
A decent paint job doesn’t have to cost thousands. I couldn’t afford a five-thousand-dollar professional paint job for my VW Beetle, so I decided to try the “roll-on” method. I spent around three hundred dollars on high-quality implement enamel, rollers, and sandpaper. The key was preparation: I spent 90% of my time sanding the body perfectly smooth between many thin coats. It took weeks of patient work, but the final result was glossy, durable, and looked surprisingly good from 10 feet away. It’s proof that with enough prep work, a budget paint job can be successful.
Why “Good Enough” Is Your Worst Enemy in a DIY Restoration
In restoration, “good enough” always comes back to bite you. While fixing a small rust spot on my fender, I decided a quick patch was “good enough” because it would be hidden. A year later, the paint on top began to bubble. The rust had spread underneath my lazy repair, and now I had to fix the entire fender properly, ruining my new paint. Doing a job right the first time, even if it takes longer, is always the better path. Every shortcut you take is just a future problem you’re creating for yourself.
The 5 Easiest DIY Upgrades to Make Your Vintage Car More Reliable
You can dramatically improve reliability with a few simple, weekend upgrades. On my old pickup, I started by installing an electronic ignition to replace the finicky points system, which cost less than one hundred dollars. Next, I added a modern high-torque starter for reliable cranking. Then I upgraded the headlights with a relay kit for brighter, safer night driving. Swapping rubber fuel lines for ethanol-resistant ones prevented leaks. Finally, adding an electric fuel pump near the tank cured vapor lock on hot days. These five jobs made my classic as dependable as a modern car.
A Beginner’s Guide to Diagnosing “Weird Noises” in an Old Car
Diagnosing noises is a process of elimination. My car developed a “clunk” from the front end. To diagnose it, I first checked if the noise happened when turning (bad CV or ball joint?), braking (loose caliper?), or going over bumps (worn shocks or bushings?). By having a friend turn the wheel while I watched the suspension, I saw a worn-out tie rod end move excessively. Isolating when and where the noise occurs is key. Don’t just guess; use a logical sequence to pinpoint the problem. It turns a scary, unknown sound into a simple part replacement.
How I Rebuilt a Carburetor for $25 and 2 Hours of My Time
Rebuilding a carburetor seems intimidating, but it’s like solving a simple puzzle. My car was running terribly, and a new carburetor was over three hundred dollars. Instead, I bought a twenty-five-dollar rebuild kit, which is just a collection of gaskets and small parts. I laid out a clean towel, took dozens of photos as I disassembled the carb, and carefully cleaned every single passage with carburetor cleaner and compressed air. Following the instruction sheet, I put it all back together. Two hours later, the car started up and idled perfectly.
The Terrifying Moment I Realized My Frame Was Rusted Through (And How I Fixed It)
There’s no feeling like finding a critical structural flaw. While under my project car, my screwdriver went straight through the frame rail. My heart sank. I thought the project was over. After panicking, I researched frame repair. I learned to cut out the rotted section well beyond the visible rust and create custom patch panels from thick-gauge steel. Using my hobby welder, I carefully fitted and welded the new metal in, adding reinforcing plates for strength. It was the most intimidating repair I’d ever done, but it saved the car and taught me that almost anything is fixable.
Rust Removal: The Pro Methods You Can Do at Home
You don’t need a sandblaster to effectively remove rust. For surface rust, I use a wire wheel on an angle grinder—it’s fast and aggressive. For pits and tighter areas, a media blaster attachment for my air compressor using gentle walnut shells works wonders without warping panels. My favorite method for small parts is electrolysis: a simple setup with a battery charger, washing soda, and a bucket of water that removes rust without any scrubbing. These methods, easily done in a home garage, provide a clean metal surface essential for a lasting repair.
My $500 Engine Bay Makeover That Wins Car Shows
A show-quality engine bay is all about cleaning and painting. My car’s engine bay was a greasy, grimy mess. I started by removing the engine (a big but worthwhile step). I then spent a weekend with degreaser, scrapers, and a power washer until the metal was spotless. After masking everything off, I used about one hundred dollars in high-temperature primer and paint to make the bay look brand new. Another few hundred on new hoses, wires, and polished bolts completed the look. For around five hundred dollars in materials, the result makes people stop and stare.
The Simple Trick to Making Old Chrome Look New Again
Before you replace pitted chrome, try this simple trick. The chrome on my car’s bumpers was covered in small rust spots and looked dull. I thought it was ruined. Then, an old-timer told me to use extra-fine “0000” steel wool and a bit of water. I was skeptical, thinking it would scratch the chrome. But it worked like magic. The super-fine wool gently abraded the surface rust without harming the chrome plating underneath. After a polish with some metal wax, the bumper looked almost new. It’s a simple, cheap way to save original parts.
How to Set Up a “Restoration Workspace” in a One-Car Garage
A small garage can be a great workspace with smart organization. In my one-car garage, I put my project car on rolling dollies so I could push it against a wall to create floor space. I built a sturdy workbench along the back wall with shelves above and below it for parts and tools. Magnetic tool strips and pegboards kept my most-used tools off the bench but within reach. The key was discipline: at the end of every day, I’d spend 15 minutes cleaning up and putting everything away. This system kept the small space functional and not chaotic.
I Followed a YouTube Tutorial to Rebuild My Brakes—Here’s the Result
YouTube is the modern mechanic’s best teacher. The brakes on my classic were spongy and weak, a job I was terrified to tackle. I found a highly-rated, hour-long video specific to my car’s brake system. I put my laptop on my workbench and followed the creator’s instructions step-by-step, pausing the video as I went. He explained bleeding procedures, torque specs, and common mistakes. Two afternoons later, I had a completely rebuilt and reliable brake system. The result was a firm pedal, safe stopping power, and the confidence that comes from conquering a critical safety-related job.
Why Your Restoration Project is Taking Forever (And How to Fix It)
Projects stall due to a lack of clear goals. My Chevelle project sat for a year because I was overwhelmed by the sheer amount of work. The fix was to stop seeing it as one giant project (“Restore Car”) and break it down into dozens of mini-projects. I made a list: “Rebuild Brakes,” “Fix Floor Pan,” “Wire Headlights.” I focused on finishing only one small task each weekend. This created momentum and a sense of accomplishment. Seeing progress, however small, is the key to staying motivated and pushing your project across the finish line.
The “Point of No Return”: When to Stop Taking Your Car Apart
This is the moment your project goes from a rolling car to a pile of parts. For my first restoration, I ignored this point. I was so excited that I disassembled everything—engine, interior, suspension—all at once. I ended up with a garage so full of unlabeled parts that I felt hopeless and almost gave up. The rule is simple: never take apart more than you can fix, label, and store in an organized way. Finish one area of the car, like the brakes or the interior, before you completely tear into another.
Budgeting a Restoration: How I Tracked Every Single Penny
A restoration budget needs a detailed tracking system. When I started my project, I created a simple spreadsheet. It had columns for the date, the part or service, the supplier, and the cost. Every single purchase, from a two-hundred-dollar part to a three-dollar bag of bolts, went into the spreadsheet. This did two things: it kept me honest about the total cost, preventing financial surprises, and it helped me see where I could save money. Seeing the “paint supplies” category grow, for instance, motivated me to find more affordable options.
The One Skill That Unlocks Almost All Other DIY Repairs
The single most important skill for a DIY mechanic is learning to diagnose problems systematically. It’s not about knowing every part, but about knowing how to think. My car wouldn’t start. Instead of randomly replacing parts, I used the “spark, fuel, air” method. Do I have spark? I checked a plug. Yes. Do I have fuel? I checked the line. No. Why no fuel? I worked my way back from the carb to the pump, finding a clogged filter. This logical troubleshooting process unlocks everything, turning you from a parts-swapper into a real mechanic.
How to Make Your Own Parts When They Don’t Exist Anymore
When parts are obsolete, you have to become a fabricator. I needed a specific battery tray for my rare classic, but no one made them. I started with a cardboard template, cutting and folding it until it fit perfectly. Then, I transferred that template shape onto a sheet of steel. Using a basic angle grinder, a drill, and a bench vise to bend the metal, I was able to replicate the original tray. It wasn’t a complex part, but learning to create a simple piece from scratch is a vital skill for keeping truly rare cars on the road.
The Truth About Harbor Freight Tools for Car Restoration
Harbor Freight tools have a place in restoration, but you must choose wisely. For tools you’ll use constantly, like ratchets or wrenches, it’s better to invest in a quality brand. However, for a single-use or specialty tool, Harbor Freight is a lifesaver. I needed a large puller for a one-time job on my axle. The professional version was over one hundred dollars; the Harbor Freight one was twenty dollars and worked perfectly. My rule is: for anything that holds the car up (jack stands) or requires precision (torque wrench), spend the money. For almost everything else, cheap is okay.
My Failed Attempts at Body Filler (And What I Learned)
Body filler is an art, and my first attempts were a disaster. I slathered it on thick to fill a dent, creating a lumpy mess that was impossible to sand smooth. I learned three hard lessons. First, filler is only for finishing, not for filling. Get the metalwork 95% perfect first. Second, apply thin layers. It’s better to apply three thin coats than one thick one. Third, invest in a long sanding board. It bridges low spots and creates a truly flat surface, which is impossible with a small hand-sander. My failures taught me patience and proper technique.
How a Simple Tune-Up Can Double Your Car’s Performance
A basic tune-up can wake up a tired old engine. My classic felt sluggish and lazy. So I spent a Saturday performing a classic tune-up. I replaced the spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, and rotor. I then set the ignition timing with a timing light and adjusted the carburetor’s air/fuel mixture by listening to the engine. The total cost was less than seventy-five dollars. The difference was night and day. The car started easier, idled smoother, and had crisp throttle response. It’s the most effective performance and reliability improvement you can make for the money.
The “Snowball Method” for Tackling a Massive Restoration Project
The “Snowball Method,” borrowed from finance, is perfect for overwhelming restorations. You start by tackling the smallest, easiest task first. For my massive project car, my first job was simply polishing one piece of chrome trim. It took 30 minutes. The next day, I replaced a broken taillight lens. Finishing these small jobs created momentum and confidence, making me feel less intimidated by bigger tasks like rebuilding the suspension. The “wins” build on each other, turning a mountain of work into a series of manageable steps.
The Real Difference Between a $1,000 Paint Job and a $10,000 Paint Job
The difference in price is almost entirely in the preparation time and labor. A one-thousand-dollar paint job involves minimal prep—a quick scuff-and-spray over the existing paint. A ten-thousand-dollar job is an investment of hundreds of hours. It involves stripping the car to bare metal, perfecting every panel, applying multiple layers of primer, block-sanding the entire car until it’s perfectly straight, and then applying multiple coats of paint and clear, followed by hours of wet-sanding and polishing. You’re not paying for better paint; you’re paying for perfection in the prep work.
Sourcing Parts: How I Find Obscure Parts for My Weird Classic
Finding parts for a rare car requires creative detective work. My go-to strategy starts with model-specific online forums—the members there are experts. Next, I search eBay not just for the part name, but for the original part number, which often yields hidden results. I also set up saved searches that email me when a new listing appears. For truly obscure parts, I’ve had success contacting specialized salvage yards across the country. I once found a rare piece of trim for my car by patiently emailing photos to a dozen different yards until one recognized it.
The Most Rewarding DIY Job I’ve Ever Done on My Car
The most rewarding job isn’t always the biggest. For me, it was restoring my car’s steering wheel. It was cracked, faded, and ugly. I spent hours carefully filling the cracks with epoxy, sanding it perfectly smooth, and then applying several coats of special interior paint. It was a slow, detailed process that required immense patience. Every time I get in the car now, my hands touch that beautifully restored wheel. It’s a constant, tactile reminder of my own craftsmanship and the one repair that brings me the most personal satisfaction.
When to DIY vs. When to Pay a Professional (A Cost-Benefit Analysis)
The decision to DIY or hire a pro comes down to a simple analysis of tools, skills, and consequences. I’ll rebuild an engine myself because I have the tools and a mistake means I just have to do it again. But I pay a professional for automatic transmission rebuilds and final paint jobs. These require highly specialized, expensive tools and skills that are hard to learn. If the cost of the tool is more than the pro’s labor, or if a mistake could be catastrophic or ruin expensive materials, it’s time to pay an expert.
How I Soundproofed My Noisy Classic Car for Under $100
Classic cars are loud, but you can quiet them down on a budget. My old truck was like driving in a tin can. I bought a one-hundred-dollar roll of adhesive-backed sound deadener, which is basically a thick foil and asphalt mat. I pulled out the seats and carpet and spent a weekend carefully applying the mat to the entire floor, the firewall, and the inside of the doors. The difference was astonishing. Road noise was cut in half, and the doors closed with a satisfying “thud” instead of a “clang.” It was the best cheap upgrade I made.
The Secret to a Perfect Interior Restoration on a Budget
A great interior is about deep cleaning and detail painting, not just expensive new parts. My car’s interior was faded and grimy. Instead of buying a new one-thousand-dollar interior kit, I spent a weekend working with what I had. I removed every panel and scrubbed them with soap and water. For the faded vinyl and plastic pieces, I used special interior spray dye that cost about fifteen dollars a can. It made the old panels look brand new. This focus on restoring original parts rather than replacing them gave me a factory-fresh look for a fraction of the cost.
I Tried 5 Different “Miracle” Rust Converters—Here’s the Winner
Rust converters claim to turn rust into a stable, paintable surface. I tested five popular brands on identical pieces of rusty metal. I prepped each piece the same way, applied the converters, and left them outside for six months. Some products created a black film that started to flake and rust again within weeks. The clear winner was a phosphoric acid-based converter. It truly transformed the rust into a hard, black, inert substance that held paint perfectly even after a brutal winter. It proved that the chemistry inside the bottle really does matter.
The Essential Electrical Skills Every Classic Car Owner Needs
You don’t need to be an electrician, but you need to master three basic skills. First, learn how to use a multimeter to check for voltage (power) and continuity (a complete circuit). This is essential for diagnosing why something isn’t working. Second, learn how to properly solder or crimp a wire to create a strong, lasting connection. A bad connection is the source of most electrical gremlins. Third, learn how to read a basic wiring diagram. It’s like a road map for your car’s electrical system, showing you exactly how everything is connected.
How to Not Get Electrocuted: A Guide to Vintage Wiring
Working with electricity is safe if you follow one golden rule: always disconnect the battery. Before I touch any wire, my first step is to remove the negative battery cable. This breaks the circuit and ensures there is no power flowing through the system. For jobs involving the starter or alternator, which have a direct positive cable, I disconnect both terminals. A car’s 12-volt system isn’t likely to be fatal, but it can create a massive spark that can burn you, weld tools to the frame, or start a fire. It’s a simple, non-negotiable safety step.
My System for Organizing Nuts, Bolts, and Small Parts During a Teardown
Losing or mixing up hardware can stop a project in its tracks. My foolproof system is using labeled sandwich bags. When I take a part off, like a water pump, all of its bolts go into a Ziploc bag. I use a permanent marker to write “Water Pump Bolts” directly on the bag. For bigger jobs, I use muffin tins or compartmentalized plastic trays. This simple, cheap habit saved my sanity during my engine rebuild. When it was time for reassembly, there was no guesswork. Every bolt was with its corresponding part.
The “Lazy” Way to Polish Old Stainless Steel Trim
Polishing stainless trim doesn’t have to be an arm-numbing chore. My secret weapon is a small polishing wheel attached to a standard power drill. I start by cleaning the trim piece thoroughly. Then, I apply a small amount of metal polishing compound directly to the trim. Using the drill on a low speed with the polishing wheel, I work my way along the piece. The drill does all the hard work, quickly bringing the stainless to a mirror shine. It takes a quarter of the time as polishing by hand and the results are far superior.
I Dropped a Modern V8 into My Classic Truck. Here’s How Hard It Was.
An engine swap, or “restomod,” is a complex but rewarding project. I swapped a modern fuel-injected 5.3L LS V8 into my old C10 truck. The hard part wasn’t the physical install; custom motor mounts made that straightforward. The real challenge was the integration. I had to figure out the complex wiring harness, install a high-pressure fuel system, modify the exhaust, and get the new engine to communicate with the old gauges. It was a massive puzzle involving fabrication, wiring, and endless problem-solving. It’s much more than just bolting in a new engine.
The Satisfaction of Hearing an Engine Fire Up for the First Time in 20 Years
It’s a moment of pure magic. After months of work rebuilding the engine from my barn-find project, the moment of truth arrived. I had checked everything a dozen times: fuel, spark, oil pressure. My hands were shaking as I connected the battery and turned the key. The engine cranked, coughed once, and then roared to life, billowing out two decades of dust and sleep. In that moment, all the greasy hands, busted knuckles, and late nights were instantly worth it. It’s not just an engine; it’s a heartbeat you brought back to life.
How to Fix Sagging Doors on Any 2-Door Classic
Sagging doors are a common issue caused by worn-out hinge pins and bushings. On my coupe, the door would drop half an inch when I opened it and was hard to close. The fix was surprisingly simple and cost less than twenty dollars. I bought a hinge pin and bushing kit specific to my car. Using a floor jack to support the door’s weight, I drove out the old, worn pins. Then I installed the new bushings and pins. The door immediately aligned perfectly, opening and closing with a satisfying click.
The Vintage Tool I Bought for $10 That I Can’t Live Without
Sometimes old tools are the best tools. At a swap meet, I bought a vintage hand-operated valve spring compressor for ten dollars. Modern overhead cam engines have made this tool less common, but for working on classic pushrod V8s, it’s indispensable. It allows me to change valve stem seals with the cylinder head still on the engine, a job that would otherwise require a major teardown. The tool’s simple, rugged design works perfectly every time. It’s a ten-dollar piece of steel that has saved me hundreds of dollars and countless hours of work.
A Step-by-Step Guide to Replacing a Fuel Tank (Without Blowing Yourself Up)
Replacing a fuel tank is a dangerous job that demands respect for safety. First, I ran the car until it was nearly out of gas, then siphoned the rest into a sealed container far away. I disconnected the battery. With a fire extinguisher nearby, I safely disconnected the filler neck and fuel lines, plugging them to stop drips. After unbolting the straps, I lowered the old tank. The key is ventilation and avoiding any source of spark—no power tools, no trouble lights that can break. It’s a job where slow, methodical safety measures are absolutely non-negotiable.
Why I Tore Apart a Perfectly Good Interior
Sometimes you have to look underneath the surface. The interior of the car I bought looked great, but I had a suspicion. I decided to pull out the seats and carpet just to be sure. It was a good thing I did. Hidden underneath the new-looking carpet, the floor pans were completely rotted through from old water leaks the seller had conveniently covered up. Tearing out that “perfectly good” interior was the best decision I made. It revealed a critical issue I was able to fix properly, preventing a future structural and safety disaster.
How to Make Gaskets That Are Better Than Store-Bought
When a pre-made gasket isn’t available or fits poorly, making your own is a superior option. I needed a new thermostat housing gasket for my oddball engine. I bought a sheet of high-quality gasket paper for five dollars. I laid the sheet over the clean housing and used a small ball-peen hammer to gently tap around the edges. The sharp metal cut a perfect outline in the paper. For the bolt holes, a tap with the hammer created perfect circles. The result was a custom-fit gasket that sealed better than any generic, store-bought alternative could.
The Art of “Making It Fit”: Modifying Parts from Other Cars
Restoration often involves creative adaptation. I needed new seatbelts for my classic, but original ones were unavailable. I found a set from a 1990s car at a junkyard for twenty dollars. The mounting points didn’t line up, so I had to “make them fit.” This involved fabricating small steel adapter brackets and reinforcing the floor pan where I drilled new holes. This art of retrofitting parts from different cars is a crucial skill. It saves money and allows you to upgrade safety and reliability by intelligently incorporating more modern, available components into your older vehicle.
I Upgraded My Drum Brakes to Disc Brakes for Safety and Performance
Upgrading from drum to disc brakes is the single best safety improvement for a classic. My car’s original four-wheel drum brakes were terrifying in modern traffic, prone to fading and pulling. I bought a front disc brake conversion kit for about six hundred dollars. The kit included everything: rotors, calipers, brackets, and hoses. The installation was a straightforward, bolt-on job that I completed in a weekend. The difference was incredible. The car now stops straight, strong, and reliably, giving me the confidence to drive it anywhere. It’s an upgrade I’d recommend to any classic owner.
The Psychological Toll of a Never-Ending Project Car
A long-term project can be mentally draining. My restoration entered its third year, and my garage was no longer a happy place. It was a source of guilt and stress. Every time I walked past the half-finished car, it felt like a failure. This “project car burnout” is real. I had to step away for a month to reset my perspective. When I came back, I set a small, achievable goal: just get the engine running. When it fired up, my motivation returned. It’s crucial to manage the mental side of a project, celebrate small victories, and take breaks when needed.
The Unsung Heroes of Restoration: Degreasers, Solvents, and Cleaners
The real magic of restoration happens before you pick up a wrench. The true heroes are the chemicals that make the work possible. On my engine rebuild, a can of foaming engine degreaser did the heavy lifting, dissolving decades of grime. A gallon of parts-soaking carburetor cleaner made old metal look new. Brake cleaner became my go-to for blasting away oil before painting. Acetone and other solvents prepped every surface for perfect adhesion. Don’t underestimate the power of clean. A clean workspace and clean parts make every job easier, more precise, and more enjoyable.
I Converted My 6V Electrical System to 12V. Was it Worth It?
Yes, a 6-volt to 12-volt conversion was absolutely worth it. My old car’s 6-volt system was pathetic. The headlights were dim, the wipers were slow, and it struggled to start. The conversion was involved: I needed a new 12V battery, alternator, ignition coil, and light bulbs. I also had to add voltage reducers for the original gauges. But the results were transformative. The car now starts instantly, the headlights are bright and safe, and I can add modern accessories like a radio. It’s one of the most practical upgrades for making an old car truly usable.
How to Troubleshoot a Car That Won’t Start, Step-by-Step
When a car won’t start, don’t panic; be a detective. My troubleshooting mantra is “Spark, Fuel, Compression.” First, I check for spark: I pull a plug wire, insert a spare spark plug, and have someone crank the engine while I watch for a spark. If there’s spark, I move to fuel: I spray a tiny shot of starting fluid into the carburetor. If it fires up for a second, I know it’s a fuel delivery problem. If it has spark and fuel but won’t run, then I check compression. This methodical process isolates the problem 99% of the time.
The Most Intimidating Repair I Ever Attempted (And Conquered)
For me, the most intimidating job was replacing the camshaft in my V8 engine. It required a near-complete teardown of the engine’s front end. The scariest part was keeping the timing chain perfectly aligned; being off by a single tooth could destroy the engine. I followed the shop manual step-by-step, double-checking everything. The moment of truth came when I started it up. The engine ran perfectly, with a new, aggressive idle from the performance cam. Conquering that job—the one I was most afraid of—gave me the confidence to believe I could fix anything on that car.
My Top 5 “Pay for It” Jobs I’ll Never DIY Again
Some jobs just aren’t worth the DIY headache. After trying and failing, here are five jobs I will always pay a professional to do. First, automatic transmission rebuilds—they are pure wizardry. Second, mounting and balancing tires; the machines are expensive and do it perfectly. Third, the final, top-coat paint job. A pro’s dust-free booth makes all the difference. Fourth, rebuilding a steering box, as the clearances are critical for safety. And finally, air conditioning work. The refrigerant is highly regulated and requires specialized vacuum pumps and gauges. My time and sanity are worth the cost.